Replies

1. 
   ToolDoc | Jul 03, 2003 01:34pm | #1

   if you do a search on this subject you should get a hit as there was just a recent posting on this subject...

                                                    ToolDoc

2. 
   DavidP52 | Jul 03, 2003 07:57pm | #2

   You can learn to do it by hand and then you can shape drills anyway you wish. With a little practice it's quite easy.I do my own right down to 3/32". What a sharpener won't do is thin the web which you need to do for hard metal drilling. This you should definitely learn.

1. 
   Telemike | Jul 04, 2003 07:35am | #4

   Thanks everyone for the replys.  I'm going to Denio's Farmer's Market and Auction (sacto people can sing it) and look for a drill doctor (and a lever cap for a stanley #1) this weekend.

   I do the larger brad points, the forstners, and the spade points with diamond files and it works well if I'm careful.  The smaller twist drills are really tough to do well even with a magnifier!  Do you know of any articles that describe how to sharpen by hand?

   PS:  I wouldn't ever sharpen small, cheap drills.  My eyes are 55+ and time away from work is worth too much!

1. 
   scattergun | Jul 06, 2003 07:02am | #6

   re: reaping the benefits of advancing age

   The cap iron for the #5 Bailey that I've been (ever so) slowly restoring apparently decided not to wait. The parts sources I thought I had must have left too.

   Who can tell me where I can get a replacement without having to sell the whole plane to raise the money?

   TIA

   DuWayne Kemmet

   Scattergun Press

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jul 06, 2003 05:54pm | #7

   What type of #5 do you have.  I have about a dozen of them but if you can tell me the type then maybe I can send you one.  The parts for #5's are cheap.Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"

1. 
   scattergun | Jul 07, 2003 07:42am | #8

   Scott:

   Scott:

   Thanks for your quick comeback. Tomorrow I'm going to look in those corners that no one ever wants to look into, and if it's still gone I'll get with you.

   A dozen #5's?? Oh well, I just shipped out 50,000 once-fired shotgun hulls, so how can I think anyone else's doings are unusual.

   Still, a dozen?

   BTW, I'm sort of new around here--should we be doing this person-to-person instead of tying up the forum? I'm at

   [email protected]

   --if that's legal to say here. If not, that's not me. SODDIT, the classic defense meaning Some Other Dude Did IT.

   Thanks

2. 
   SCFrankland | Jul 07, 2003 03:32pm | #9

   The form is for posting questions, answers and even sometimes opinions.  Or should that be opinions and sometimes questions and answers.  Anyway let he know if you need anything I am after buying a lot of parts and collections over the years and have a lot of extra bits kicking around in the event I ever need one for a restoration project.  I am currently rebuilding a Stanley #7 type 4 and I have just about everything I need minus a few minor parts that I have tracked down and awaiting for shipment.  Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"

3. 
   scattergun | Jul 09, 2003 05:24pm | #10

   Scott:

   Being a user, not a collector, I've been doing a bit of research to find out what type of #5 I do have. Naturally, I have only muddied my own waters. Now I'm faced with the ultimate temptation: Aftermarket iron--either Hock or even Clifton. I know that Hock is good, but the Clifton cap iron really looks good.

   Since I am concrned with performance rather that collector value, I need to know if the fancy iron does make that much difference. (I can't help but notice how light the original Stanley iron is.)

   What do you think?

   Butch

   Lumber Reduction Center

4. 
   SCFrankland | Jul 09, 2003 06:15pm | #11

   A heavier thicker blade will help reduce chatter when planning and with some of the alloys they use now it will keep you from heading back to the sharpening center so often.  A big part of a chipbreaker's function is to dampen vibration.  The chipbreakers on older Stanley planes are usually quite thin. Most of the aftermarket chipbreakers are much thicker and provide better support for the blade.  I tend to recondition my chipbreakers so I haven't bought any but I do use the A2 blades and find that they are a lot better than the old Stanley ones.

   I have been looking at LN new chipbreaker but am going to waith till the trade show this fall to check them out.Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"

2. 
   Andrew | Jul 05, 2003 12:00am | #5

   Darex and some of the other fancy drill sharpeners will do this. Usually you'll only see them in machine shops, and they are very expensive (over a grand IIRC) so they aren't marketed towards amatures. Some of them have gone cheaply on E-Bay though.

   I have a low speed grinder (100 rpm) that I built myself, and although I can do a decent job sharpening freehand on a regular grinder, I find that it's a real peice of cake to do on the low speed grinder and I get better results because of the increased control it gives.

3. 
   dominic42 | Jul 04, 2003 04:36am | #3

   i have a drill doctor at work that i use on a daily bases and its great. takes less then a min to sharpen a bit once you get the hang of it.