Replies

1. 
   jeff100 | Mar 12, 2007 03:00am | #1

   I recently asked the same question, here is the thread. I ended up using a jig and a forstner bit with extended shank, both purchased from Rockler.

   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=34614.1

   This is what I used with much success, my benchtop was 3" thick maple...

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1633&filter=forstner

   
   

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   Edited 3/11/2007 8:01 pm by jeff100

1. 
   burt 4 | Mar 12, 2007 03:17am | #2

   Jeff,

   Thanks....read your response, as well as those who responded to your question...nothing like information overload :-)   Taken together, I have a much idea how to drill the holes.

   Thanks,

   Burt

2. 
   nikkiwood | Mar 12, 2007 06:36am | #3

   I drilled all the holes in a work table top with the same set-up you have. The trick to keeping the forstner bit from wandering is to use an awl to make a small starter hole.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   jeff100 | Mar 12, 2007 09:52am | #4

   Good point, I forgot to mention that. I took a 16 penny nail and ground the end on my bench grinder to a nice round point and 'center punched' each hole location to give the forstner bit center point a place to register. You are right, it prevents any wandering on startup, and once the hole is established, the jig and the established hole prevents the forstner bit from diverging from a straight hole. Since my benchtop was approx 3" thick, I had to remove the jig and drill the last approx 1/4" free hand, being careful to keep the drill perpendicular to the benchtop. I was very surprised at the minimal to no tearout on breakthrough with the Rockler carbide forstner bit, although I was careful to reduce my feedrate when I was close to breakout. I probably could completely eliminate any tearout by using some tape (yes, I know adding material is what's normally done), but the tearout is so minimal, if any, I don't worry about it. I needed thru holes in most places due to my use of old fashioned hold downs, which I find truly amazing in how well those work...Jeff

1. 
   Manny | Mar 12, 2007 02:27pm | #5

   Sears sells a jig for that purpose. I used it in my bench, and no problem ( 40 holes)

3. 
   Vikingvood | Mar 12, 2007 05:38pm | #6

   If anyone in the seattle area needs help drilling the dog holes in thier bench I have aMag drill/press that works very well for this. You just clamp a small metal plate that is just bigger than the footprint of the mag drill to the benchtop(10" x 10"or larger) & you can shim it for your req. angle  then set the mag drill on the plate - align to the req. hole location - turn on the magnet - turn on the drill & drill your hole. I am willing to help or loan this to anyone in the seattle area for this use if you would like to use this method.