I have a problem drilling into end grain with high speed drills. The drills drift off the mark into the softest septa when I need to drill a straight hole at a precise point. A small drill just bends to the softest wood septa and larger drills (3 / 8″) just push the wood piece aside. I’ve used standard and pointed drills. Forstner bits are not available in the sizes needed. Jack K
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Replies
Try a barefoot auger, which doesn't have a center point that follows the soft wood between annual rings. These are standard augers like these: http://www.heartlandamerica.com/browse/item.asp?PIN=19727&, or these ship augers: http://www.amazon.com/b/104-5254286-7190329?ie=UTF8&node=552410. You make them barefoot by grinding off the point. If you need a drill smaller than 1/4-inch, try grinding off the point on a brad point twist drill.
You'll have to start the hole with a standard drill bit (forstner, auger, or twist), and then change to the barefoot auger. You can power the bit with either a brace or powered hand drill.
I once drilled a 53-in-long propellor shaft hole through the end grain in a boat's keel timber. It was 2-inches diameter and the bit exited within 1/8-inch of my target center point. For this long hole, I spent nearly a day building a track for the drill motor and had an extension welded to the auger.
Gary W
gwwoodworking.com
Edited 8/10/2006 12:01 pm by GaryW
Edited 8/10/2006 12:05 pm by GaryW
Gary W has hit the mark (hopefully center punced just where you want to drill the hole) and there is not much I can add. The barefoot auger is the device you need. You can make one in a pinch by grinding the point off a standard twist drill making it square on the end. I cut them off in an abrasive cutoff saw. It is better if you put just a bit of clearance on the two cutting edges by grinding the back in a standard bench grinder. Run with lots of speed and clear the drill often. Fixturing the part accurately negates the need for a starting hole.With best regards,Ernie Conover
Edited 8/11/2006 7:12 am ET by ErnieConover
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