Replies

1. 
   emrude | Aug 03, 2005 04:04pm | #1

   As long as they are not highly figured you should be able to put them through the planer.

2. 
   joinerswork | Aug 03, 2005 04:11pm | #2

   manny,

   A smooth cutting combination blade on your table saw will leave a better finish than your bandsaw.  Joint the edges of your board, rip off, rejoint and rip, etc.  You should be able to get a gluable surface from the saw, turn the jointed side out.

   Alternatively, if the maple is straight gtained you should be able to run the strips thru your planer.  Be careful to feed so you are cutting with the grain, but expect to have an occasional blowup in the planer if there are crossgrained areas in your stock. Running the thin strips on top of a piece of 3/4" ply seems to reduce tearout in my machine (12" Parks), but I can't speak to your results.

   Regards,

   Ray

3. 
   desertrat | Aug 03, 2005 05:04pm | #3

   A couple of passes with your smoothing plane would solve everything.

4. 
   mudman | Aug 03, 2005 05:20pm | #4

   All the above sujestions are good. Another is to sand it by hand with a sanding block. If you are using the correct blade of good quality in a well set up machine there should be very little sanding needed.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
1. 
   Manny | Aug 03, 2005 06:04pm | #5

   Thanks for your suggestions, the only problem to run it thru the planer is that I cut them at 0.28 " thickness.. thinking on the drum sander, and then I remembered that i didn't have one! ( never watch woodworks before sleeping)....

   sanding by hand maybe would be the last choice... I do have a belt sander.. maybe a jig?

5. 
   RickL | Aug 03, 2005 07:00pm | #6

   Another simple way to sand to a uniform thickness is a sanding drum on a drill press. A side mounted fence controls the thickness. Basically a small side ways DIY drum sander.

6. 
   jazzdogg | Aug 04, 2005 05:43am | #7

   Manny,

   I'd probably use a card scraper, followed by 200-grit abrasive.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

7. 
   philip | Aug 04, 2005 01:39pm | #8

   Manny,
   I assume that since these are edgeing strips the cross section measures aprox 3/4 inch wide by 1/4 inch thick, and you have one face smooth and the other band sawn? And you have not a million miles of it to do?
   Then what's wrong with your #4 or #5 hand plane-pin and glue the stips, nail punch the heads and Plane.
   Or , if you are shy of the above, you can use your planer as alraedy described, but you will still have to fair the top and bottom edges (preferably with a Plane)
   Why are people shy with that most basic requirement-hand planing, yet they have power machinery and other fancy things like pin nailers?Is this a legacy of the a , to me ,faceless person by the name of Norm?
   I rest my case.

8. 
   HouseOfY | Aug 05, 2005 02:06am | #9

   This is one of those 'there are 100 ways and none of them are wrong' type of answers... it is really whet works best for you. The bandsaw is nice for keeping the cut (loss of stock) to a min but takes a good bit of time.. You lose more with a table saw blade, but it is much more accurate. What I generally do is to put a sacraficial fence on my table saw, start with a good clean edge, run it through the table saw (to get the strip) take the stock, run a clean edge on the board again.. and then back to the saw. If you start with new blades on your jointer, you will get a very smooth cut..

    

   ~Rob

1. 
   Patto | Aug 05, 2005 03:52am | #10

   In all of these suggestions, you can reduce the risk of rocking the plane/ sanding block by laying two pieces side by side to increase the width. Aslo a fair chance they will finish with the same thickness.

   Dave