I’m looking for ideas on what to use to support round metal dust collection duct work from my workshop ceiling. All horizontal ducting will be 6″ metal and a total of 40 linear feet. The ceiling is 1/4″ hardboard on 24″ truss centers. The duct work will be within a 3″ of the ceiling. There will be four hanging drops of flexible hose (6″ and 4″ dia), none attached to the walls, so their weight will be supported from the ceiling. The dust collection unit is a Woodsucker cyclone driven by a 2 hp motor.
My original plan was to use plumber’s tape wrapped under the duct work and screwed to the trusses (either directly to the trusses or to a cross bar spanning two trusses), but I’ve been told that a rigid connection to the ceiling trusses is not ideal (due to noise and vibration of the whole building). I’m now considering bungees, rubber strapping (tarp hold downs) or cable ties.
Tom
Edited 4/8/2009 11:44 pm ET by Tom from Owego
Replies
Tom,
due to noise and vibration of the whole building
Yeeeeks, if you have that issue then I think you have more to be worried about that a little rattling now and the HVAC folks have been doing it all wrong for a long time. Besides even if there is an issue you could always pad the hangers.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I have a 2.5 hp Oneida Cyclone in the basement and pipe run across the ceiling to all of the machines. I used plumbers strap, galvanized with the holes, and screws to attach the piping, 7" to 5", to the floor joists above. The floor upstairs is carpeted but you have to listen to tell the cyclone is running upstairs. If my wife is watching TV she doesn't even hear anything run unless I am running the jointer. Vibration should not be a problem.
Bruce
You have all kinds of options here:
Screw eyehooks in the joists and use wire.
Use duct hanging straps and screw them into the joists.
Hang wooden slats from the ceiiling; let the pipe "rest" on them.
Use fiberglass rope if you don't like the idea of wire or metal straps. This eliminated the rattle between the pipe and the hanger.
Thread plastic hose over the wire or metal strap to also eliminate the possibility of pipe/hanger rattle.
Glue strips of rubber cut from an inner tube onto the metal straps.
Greg
•••••••
Exo 35:30-35
'duct' tape comes to mind!
Tom,
You can use 1-2" flat fiberglass strap and hang similar to pipe strapping. Mount to joists with screw and screw collars (to prevent tear out) through folded over strap on bothsides of joist.
BB
Tom
Not very scientific or fancy, but I use screwed in hooks and clothes-line.
I tend to make updates and improvements, and the hooks stay in the ceiling and the clothes-line allows me quick and easy adjustments.
Doesn't rattle or make noise.
And real cheap.
Jeff
Jeff,
That's the kind of idea I was looking for ! Cheap and effective.Couple of questions: 1) Spacing between the hooks of a pair ?2) Spacing between hook pairs ?
(hope this made sense to you)3) Did you do anything special for vertical drops ?Tom
I just finished my install, 8" duct and 6" duct, all hung from ceiling with 'plastic' plumbers strap. Cheap and effective...Man it's nice having ALL my machines hooked up. Where I saved money hanging my duct work, I spent it on high end self cleaning 6" Veritas gates at each machine. I also used cheap HVAC duct instead of the expensive dust collection ducting....
When I mounted all of my duct work, I cut 1.5" firring strips, notched them on the saw every so often and then screwed them to the ceiling where I wanted the ducts to run. I attached the ductwork with long nylon wire ties (Lowes). These are easily undone when (not if) you find a need to take the ductwork down. Looks good, fast and easy.
I've got a couple rolls of plumbers tape to get rid of now.
Brent
Tom
I space my hooks about 2 ft apart, due to the span of the roof trusses.
I can also get away with a 4 ft span, as my pipes are 5 ft pieces.
I use 1 hook per location, except where the pipe falls in an odd place and a second hook makes it easy.
As for the vertical drops, I try to have a support just above it to take the weight of the pipe and let the metal pipe then support itself.
I have a wood block under the 1 long (ceiling to floor) vertical run to prevent movement, but it's really not needed.
(I've hit the pipe with wood from the jointer a few times and almost knocked it loose, hence the block of wood. Also, this pipe has all my heavy wire drops supported by it with cable ties.)
If I can, I support the Y's where the pipe joins, as they are heavy.
I try to use as few and short plastic flex pipes as possible, due to suction loss.
A piece of bungee cord helps keep the flex pipes controlled.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks again.
Tom
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