Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | May 09, 2005 01:46am | #1

   Tool,

   If it,s a 'one shot/one pass' dado, IE: Routing an exact 1/2" groove using a 1/2' router bit either way will work....

   But!! if you make additional passes to widen the groove, start out right to left, but return left to right . On rare occasions using a 'Climb Cut' is admissable but go slower and grasp the router firmly and 'ride' the fence. Stein.

2. 
   hammer1 | May 09, 2005 02:45am | #2

   99% of the time you should be moving against the rotation, this is a counter clockwise movement. If you are doing an edge, the piece is on a bench with the working edge facing you, move from left to right. If you are clamping a straight edge to run against, the straight edge is perpendicular to you, the edge goes on the left and you push the router away from you. It makes a big difference in controlling the router and in keeping the router tight against a fence. If you were using two fences, one for each side of the dado, you would push away from you on the left side fence and pull towards you on the right side fence.

   In climb cutting, you move the router with the rotation of the bit. This means that the router will have a tendency to grab and take off on it's own. It you are doing this on a router table, the piece can be ripped out of your hands and shot across the shop. Similar to running a board backwards on a table saw or backing up with a circular saw. I would recommend not trying this.

   Once you have extensive experience with the router and understand all the safety aspects of using it, you will know when and where a climb cut is advisable. It won't be very often.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   rubydog | May 09, 2005 02:59am | #3

   When plowing a dado there is no climb cutting in either direction. Therefore, use the cutting action of the bit to help hold the stock against the fence. If the bit is between you and the fence move the stock from the right to the left.

   Steve

4. 
   eddiefromAustralia | May 09, 2005 11:45am | #4

   Does matter, toolfreak -

   you want the cutting action of the router bit to be such that it pushes the router against the fence, not acts to pull the router away from the fence.

   Refer to the attached diagram for a clearer description.

   Cheers,

   eddie

   
1. 
   Toolfreak | May 10, 2005 07:25pm | #8

   Great chart!! I'm gonna hang it up in my wanna-be shop. Thanks!- Toolfreak

5. 
   user-343246 | May 09, 2005 08:55pm | #5

   If you're using the router hand-held with a fence, just remember that 'routers go left'. Go the appropriate direction which pulls the fence against the work.

   -matt

1. 
   fgnoel | May 09, 2005 11:00pm | #6

   I always seem to be confused about whether to "push or pull" go "right or left"  with an adjustable guide or a guide fence.  with my limited mental abilities and as a hobbyist, I always seem to be confused.  Your comments that "routers go left" has cleared it up for me.  Having in mind which way the router tends to go tells me whether to push or pull, right or left etc.  without having to take so much time to think about it. Thanks for the great tip.

1. 
   user-343246 | May 09, 2005 11:41pm | #7

   I'd love to take credit for the tip, but I read it in the Tage Frid book. One of his better suggestions. He also describes how to use the router to sharpen the knives on your jointer. I doubt if I'll ever try that one! -matt