Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 05, 2006 01:14pm | #1

   Any finishing material that doesn't dry almost instantly will pick up dust from the air, its an unfortunate fact of life.  Dust in brushes and in the finishing material (usually through contamination by dirty brushes or applicators) is another source, which is why you should never work directly from the original canl  Other sources, include is dust left on the surface before finishing (the tack cloth used right before applying the finish should have taken care of most of this dust). 

   Because dust is inevitable, rubbing out the final surface--finishing the finish--is also a normal part of finishing.  You should wait for the finish to become well cured--about a month for oil based varnish to be safe.

   Steel wool is not good for getting rid of dust nibs.  Sandpaper works--I usually use 600 grit, lubricated with water containing a drop or two of dishwashing liquid like Dawn. You can also use paint thinner.  Even better is to knock down the nibs with a very gentle use of a card scraper.  (This also works well on any runs or stray drops on the surface.)  

   This will leave the surface scratched a bit.  Then it is necessary to bring the surface back up the the desired sheen, without unwanted scratches.  I usually shift to very fine paper--1200 grit or so to reduce the 600 grit scratches.  If your goal is a satin finish now is the time to use steel wool, either natural or synthetic grey pads.  You could use a rubbing compound such as pumice lubricated with light mineral oil or paraffin oil to achieve a satin finish.  If you are looking for a gloss finish you could use rottenstone instead of the pumice.  Or, you can use a commercial rubbing compound.  

   You do need to take care not to cut through the last coat, so sand and rub no more than absolutely necessary.  This is the chief disadvantage of wiping varnish finishes.  Brushed on full strength varnish takes longer to dry "out of dust" so it will have more dust nibs, but it is several times thicker, giving a bit more margin for rubbing out. 

1. 
   Shalom | Dec 09, 2006 04:55am | #7

   Thank you Steve. I'm copying your message for future reference. I did light sand with 220 grit followed by 400 grit wet dry sandpaper lubricated as you suggested with water and a tiny amont of soap. I was concerned because the last application of Waterlox was only a few days old but I couldn't bear to leave it as it was. The samall amount of water I used didn't seem to hurt the Waterlox. I'll wait the 30 days you recommend and follow through with the rest of your suggestions. All that's left is to figure out how to forge Maloof's signature and to sell the table for $30,000.00. Shalom

2. 
   aaronb | Dec 05, 2006 11:00pm | #2

   How many coats of Waterlox did you apply and did you sand between each coat? I would suggest that you sand with 400 grit to flatten the surface and wipe on one or two more light coats. If two coats lightly sand between the second and last coat. I typically rub waterlox with a white scotchbrite pad after the final. Since you describe it as feeling like sandpaper, my guess is that you did not sand between coats.

   Aaron

1. 
   Shalom | Dec 06, 2006 07:26pm | #3

   Actually Aaron, I did sand and tack cloth between applications. I applied five thin layers and was unhappy with the look so I called Waterlox and asked their opinion. They suggested I use a brush rather than a cloth, so I applied a coat with a brush, sanded and it looked great. But since they said to apply three coats I applied a second coat and the results were terrible. Perhaps my second coat was too thick. I don't know. I did sand the last coat with 400 grit sandpaper because I just couldn't stan leaving it with that surface,and it's still a little rough but I want to let it dry for another few days before I try sanding again with 600 grit. If that doesn't work I'll try applying two light coats as you suggest. Incidentally, do you use a lubricant with your white Scotchbright pad? Thanks for your help, Shalom

1. 
   aaronb | Dec 06, 2006 07:39pm | #4

   Good luck, i don't use a lubricant and the white scotch brite doesn't mar the finish or reduce sheen. It is just enough abrasive to remove minor dust nibs and smooth around edges. I have not had the problem that you are describing and with sanding between each coat, i'm surprised you had the problems.

   I always wipe on the finish with a rag. As you may have noticed once the can of Waterlox is open is begins to thicken quickly. If it takes a week to apply all of your coats and you use the same jar of finish than the finish in the jar is almost to thick to wipe on effectively. I counter this by continually crushing the metal jar down so that there is never air left in the can or pouring the finish into a smaller jar so there is no 'head space'. I have noticed that if I use old finish or finish that has thickened the finish does not self level well and is very difficult to get a nice smooth finish.

   I also at times apply the finish and wipe off excess, but it is important to not let it jell up too much before wiping off. Again good luck

   Aaron

3. 
   pins | Dec 08, 2006 10:22pm | #5

   This is what I do:

   I brush the first two, three or four light coats, thinned with mineral spirits, sanding in between with 220 or 320 white no-load paper with sanding blocks faced with cork, 320 on the last brushed coat. Then I wipe on a very thin coat. If there's any dust in the last coat I remove it with 0000 steel wool.

   Then I rub it out with rottenstone using 50/50 parafin oil and mineral spirits. (You can rub out with pumice first if the top is too rough for rottenstone.)

   Your first problem may be that the fan was blowing directly on your tabletop. Waterlox says that 'air circulation' will speed drying and I always circulate air above the table, or whatever, not directly on it. I doubt that there was enough dust in your home to cause your problem.

   I also add argon to the gallon can after each opening to retard the natural tendancy of Waterlox to gel and then turn solid.

   John

1. 
   Shalom | Dec 09, 2006 04:34am | #6

   Thanks Pins. You're probably right. The fan was blowing directly onto the work. I thought it would be O.K. because it was blowing gently and I had the air filtered. In the future I'll just let it dry. I used 200 grit followed by 400 grit wet dry sandpaper lubricated with water and  a drop of soap to treat the surface. It's fine now. You seem to have an elaborate system for preparing your surface. I never heard of the kind of paper you use. What is it. Thanks for responding. I'll keep your note for future reference. Shalom

1. 
   pins | Dec 09, 2006 03:38pm | #8

   I usally only have to wait 1-2 days to rub out Waterlox and the paper I use is here:http://www.econabrasives.com/index.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=EA&Category_Code=Sheets_SiliconCarbide_NoLoadFinishingPaperThey have a heaver weight but this one is fine and the price is right.John

4. 
   danmart | Dec 09, 2006 04:51pm | #9

   The surface is not what you want. There are things you can do at the beginning: sand between coats, add japan drier to cut down on drying time, use different grades of paper(400-1200) and lots of elbow grease. I have had your problem on a curly maple trestle table(large surface and flat). My solution: I took my polishing/buffing tool(rpm700-1200) and used autobody liguid polishing compounds to polish out the waterlox. With a sponge disk and 2000 grit liquid, it will be so smooth you might not like it. No problem. Take some white scotch brite pads and bring it back. This sounds rather industrial but its not. It is a very effective way to restore a layered finish to a smooth surface. Use lots of angled light and you will be able to control the rate of abrasion with ease. The trick: you need a slow turning buffer. Got any autobody/painter friends?? Good Luck

1. 
   JohnE | Dec 09, 2006 11:12pm | #10

   A technique that I have used sucessfully is to rub the surface lightly with a pad made from a brown paper bag. It is just coarse enouge to knock down the nibs without scratching the surface. This was in Fine Woodworking about six months ago.