I am building a wall unit that will contain drawer modules that are 36” tall, 21” deep and 35” wide. I plan to use ¾” mahogany. The top will be dovetailed to the sides and the bottom will be glued and screwed into dado slots in the sides. There will be three drawers in each module installed on heavy-duty full extension slides. The drawers will be used to store books (heavy). I originally planned to insert dust cover panels between the drawers and glue the panel frames into dado slots in the side (like the bottom). I am now having second thoughts about the need for these dust cover panels. They create a dimensional problem with trying to maintain critical drawer height and a cross-grain wood movement problem with the sides. Unless these dust cover panels and their frames would somehow add needed strength to the case construction, I would like to eliminate them from my design. Any opinions?
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Replies
IMO, you don't need them.Not sure if you're adding a face frame, but this provides great rigidity.
However, the dust panels will offer more strength than not having them.I'd not use them unless you have a fireplace(wood) or wood-burning stove in the same room; a lotta dust will find it's way to the books.
jackhall,
You didn't say if the drawer faces are overlay or inset , but honestly not very much dust accumulates in a closed drawer as a rule. The dust panels can provide strength even though a frame with no panel would do the same. IMHO a cabinet back is a must , with or without a face frame for this application .
good luck dusty
The drawers will be inset, not overlap. There will also be a thin plywood back. There won't be much tendancy to rack or twist as much as plain old vertical load bearing. There is no face frame planned for the unit.
Dust panels would add a little bit of racking resistance to the case but not enough to make a difference.
With that much depth, no face frame, a thin plywood back, and a lot of weight in the drawers, your comment that there won't be a racking problem is wishful thinking. With inset drawers even a little racking will cause appearance problems and racking of even a quarter inch will prevent the drawers from closing at all. You should reevaluate your design.
John W.
I certainly agree that I need to prevent racking but the majority opinion seemed to be that dust panels would not add much racking resistance. Sounds like I should add a face frame.
Glueing them in a dado wil cretainly cause a problem with the 21" deep sides. You will need to account for movement somehow. This seems like a good application for sheet goods. Is there a particular reason for choosing solid stock?
Tom
Douglasville, GA
Originally I had planned on using 3/4" plywood. The frame members would only be about 2" wide so I wasn't sure about the strength of the frame joints (plywood-to-plywood). I also thought there might still be a wood movement problem even though only the side of the case would move. If the frames are not really necessary for ridgidity, I probably won't use them.
Jackhall,
I built a lateral file for my wife last summer that measured 30"hx22'dx36"w with a solid birch top, birch draw fronts and birch ply carcas. It is a big box...very big. It is only two draws and could easily tip over if the bottom draw not full when the top draw is opened. I did use a panel...thinking it would help prevent racking..do't know if it does...but the draws are so heavy that pushing them from the side could cause a collapse...just a thought..
Sounds similar to my case. What thickness drawer bottoms did you use? Do the files hang from a support bracket or do they set directly on the bottom?
Jackhall,
I used a faceframe on the carcas, 1/2" birch ply on the draws all around, mounted the accurides on the side walls of the carcas and hung the files off a staples support rack. Ileft a bit of room behind the draws incase I needed to add weight in back to keep from tipping....did not need the weight.
Edited 4/13/2004 7:26 pm ET by BG
Jack,
I haven't read through your replies so I may be duplicating info here.
Dust panels float in the groove, so racking/movement shouldn't be an issue.
They were designed to keep dust out of a drawer when the maid used to run around with a broom perpetually stirring up dust. With the advent of the vacuum cleaner, they're not really necessary now.
Cheers,
eddie
Edited 4/14/2004 7:28 am ET by eddie (aust)
Jack,
will you not have internal dividers? dust panels normally float in rabbets of the rails and kickers/runners.
I'd also agree with assessment another made that you are stretching the load limits of your design, especially if you'll not have internal dividers. books can get quite heavy.....which is why they are normally housed in shelving, rather than drawers.
Many of the "books" ar actually magazines. They would look junky lined up on a shelf so I chose to put them in drawers. I assume the dividers mentioned would be vertical partitions in the case. That would force me to go to double drawers wouldn't it?
jack,
I've been in the background, reading others responses to your question. I wonder if you are planning to have blades,( dividers, rails )between the drawer fronts? If you are trying to avoid a face frame, the drawer blades could be joined to the case ends with a sliding dovetail at each end. This will give you a strong case, resistant to side to side racking. I would use at least 2 or 2-1/2" wide blade, 7/8" thick. This will show the 7/8 edge between the drawers. Put something similar at the back of the case, too. It'll really stiffen things up.
Regards,
Ray
Dovetailed horizontal dividers between the drawers would certainly be desireable. I would not lose any vertical storage space (at least no worse than a dust panel frame member would use).
Another question I had concerned the thickness of the drawer bottoms. The drawer bottom will be approximately 35" by 21". Given an interior height of 9" I estimate I could get an equivalent of a 5' stack of magazines in the drawer. That could be around 100 lbs of weight. What thickness of plywood bottom would I need?
Jack,
I generally use 1/2" pine or poplar for drawer bottoms; I'd hazard a guess that 1/4" ply would have enough strength, but I'd reinforce it with a 3"X 1/2" strip down the center (front to back) glued and screwed underneath. Just to keep things from sagging. Glue blocks all round the edges too.
Regards,
Ray
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