Hi all,
Tried out Arm R Seal but didn’t have much of a dust free environment and used a terry cloth that left some threads in the finish after the first coat. At this point, should I just sand it all off and start over?
Hi all,
Tried out Arm R Seal but didn’t have much of a dust free environment and used a terry cloth that left some threads in the finish after the first coat. At this point, should I just sand it all off and start over?
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Replies
Take some very fine sandpaper 330 or 400 grit and wet sand the surface using the finish to wet the sandpaper. Wipe the surface with a lint free cloth and see if this clears up your surface.
Hey,
Assuming it's a large piece I imagine a card scraper is out. That's what I'd use. Barring that, the next thing I'd go to is a belt sander with 320 grit. 320 should do the trick without leaving too much catch-up work.
If I was going to wet sand I'd begin with 800. But I may be a bad source, I've never had your problem.
Whatever you do, good luck.
Mikaol
I can't tell what the piece is from the picture or how bad the problem is, but I don't feel the solution is a belt sander. That can be one destructive piece of machinery in inexperienced hands.
Depending on the severity of the problem and the complexity of the piece, again picture was not much help, I would use a combination of RO sander with 320 or 400 grit and hand sanding, wet sanding by hand has the advantage of not clogging the paper as fast, assuming you are using wet dry paper.
Once you have achieved a satisfactory level of cleanup you still need to attend to the cause of the problem in the first place. Preferably you can create a more dust free finishing environment, don't use machinery for 24 hours before finishing and let the dust settle before vacuuming, not brooming all surfaces especially the floor. Isolate your finishing area from the rest of the shop even if it's just temporarily . There are many ways to do this, drape tarps or even shower curtains around your finishing area, use light weight foam insulation panels to create a finishing booth of sorts(don't forget lighting) also if you are in a basement don't forget the ceiling, foot traffic overhead can knock a lot of dust loose vacuum everywhere carefully.
Once you have the area isolated, vacuum the workpiece carefully then wipe LIGHTLY with an appropriate tack cloth, some are not compatible with water borne finishes.
You can also reduce dust problems by selecting a finish the drys quicker, the faster a finish becomes dry to the touch the less time there is for dust to collect. The Arm R Seal you used, as with all oil based varnishes can be slower drying. Shellac or water borne finishes tend to dry faster. Apply the finish with an appropriate lint free applicator.
After the first coat scuff with either gray Scotchbrite pads or 400 grit paper repeat above steps starting with vacuum the workpiece. I generally apply 2-3 coats of a fim finish depending on the use of the piece. You can buff the final coat with white Scotchbrite or 800-1000 grit paper if desired followed by a coat of a good wax.
Don't over complicate it. A light sanding with 220-320 grit is all you need. Since you only have one coat and especially if you have stain under it, you need to use a very light touch; just enough to remove most of the dust nibs. Keep in mind that you will do some more sanding after the second and third coats as well. Vacuum up the dust and leave the shop over night. Next morning, any dust in the area should have settled. Use a cloth or paper towel slightly dampened with mineral spirits to wipe down the sanded surface. Let it dry for a few minutes and then apply your next coat. When that has dried, follow the same process for the third coat. The third coat will likely turn out glass smooth.
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