Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 17, 2011 08:24am | #1

   Dye is the way to get really dark.  But it goes on first, directly on bare wood before filling or sealing.  I would not choose RIT.  It's made for dying clothes, and while it will probably color the oak there is no reason for it to be light fast, given that clothes leave the closet or drawer so rarely compared to furniture.  I'd use a powdered water soluble dye such as TransFast, or those made by WD Lockwood. 

   After the dye has tried is the time to fill pores using a heavily tinted pore filler.  If you decide to not fill pores, then a black pigment stain, will likely be needed, since you will possibly observe that the dye won't have colored in insides of all the pores.  The stain or filler corrects that problem.  If you use a filler first there is a risk that it will have sealed the wood enough to make accepting dye a problem. 

1. 
   71Atlas | Mar 17, 2011 12:27pm | #2

   Thank you for the advice which I will test. To tint the filler can I just mix some dye in the filler?

   Mike

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 17, 2011 12:39pm | #3

   I usually add pigment to pore filler, particularly since I favor oil based pore filler, limiting dye options.  Suitable pigments include artists oil paints, japan colors, as well as universal colorants.  You want a nearly opaque filler to cover the light spots in the pores. 

2. 
   71Atlas | Mar 18, 2011 10:14am | #4

   Thanks again.

   I have a question about whether to apply a sanding sealer before or after the grain filler.

   Mike

1. 
   Westchester | Mar 18, 2011 03:44pm | #5

   Sealer

   If you use a sealer before the filler - the filler is easier to handle - but if you're trying to color the wood more using a colored filler - then don't seal  before the filler.   It can be done both ways but using filler before sealing requires careful rubbing off of the filler - don't allow the filler to dry as much as usual so removal is easier thereby protecting the stain from moving too much

   SA

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 19, 2011 11:41am | #6

   I have had the best results using a two step ebonizing process.  The first step is to use an ebony water soluable dye stain.  Once it has fully dried, I apply an oil based ebony pigment stain and really work it in.  Wipe off the excess and let it fully dry for at least 48 hours after the bleed-back stops.

   Keep in mind that red oak has large, deep pores and the above process will leave the structure of the grain visiable.

   Be sure to test out the above procedure on scrap wood to learn how to get the finish you want.  Don't let you project be you learning curve.