I’m planning on ebonizing some cherry legs for a table I’m building. Cutting the tapers uncovered some pitch pockets that need to be filled. Looking for the best way to fill so Transfast water base black dye will color the repair evenly. Will be followed by dewaxed garnet shellac and varnish.
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Replies
I would try a wood filler putty, preferably solvent base so that your dye doesn't soften it up. It really doesn't much matter which wood species the label says it's matched to. I did a test sample using a variety of different colors of wood filler putty on rift cut oak last spring and I absolutely could not tell which putty was which based on what I could see. The sample wasn't a true ebonized finish. But, it was very close. Oddly enough the client has since had me change the stain to an ebony black. I still can't see where the putty is on the production pieces. This was all for an upscale bank. So, it had to look good.
Regards,
Kevin
Thanks Kevin--
Just what I needed. I'll test the various wood fillers I have on hand.--Bruce
A follow up for those interested.
Tried various wood fillers. Because this is a very black, full strengh in several coats dye the fillers dyed slightly lighter and cooler in color. Mainly the reflective quality of the sanded putty vs the wood grain exaggerated the difference.
Best results were achieved by mixing sawdust with the black dye adding a touch of pva glue. Sanded with 100 grit paper adds grain pattern. Don't need to worry about the pva rejecting the dye because the patch is jet black (made sure to keep glue off surrounding wood).
Can't see the patch at all. Still need to follow through with finish schedule to see if any issues arise.
I used a mixture of black water-based pigmented wiping stain and black water-based dye stain. The addition of black pigments is probably why the putty on mine stained as dark as the wood. I used Sherwin Williams products for both the wipe stain and dye stain for those who may be interested.
Regards,
Kevin
Kevin-
I was going to ask you if you used a pigment stain also since you were using oak. Reading in Bob Flexner's finishing book he said adding a pigment stain is necessary to color the pores on large pored stock. I did try mixing the black dye with solvent based putty--it works but doesn't seem to be dry hard --I guess its true, oil and water don't mix.
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