Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Jul 08, 2007 11:08pm | #1

   woodhors, Exposing wood to oxides of iron, which is what happens in a mixture of vinegar and steel wool, results in darkening only if the wood contains tannins (tannic acid). Oak, walnut, mahogany, cedar, douglas fir, redwood conatain tannins. Pear wood doesn't. You could apply a tannic acid solution (http://www.woodfinishsupply.com) to the pear wood, but it would only penetrate for a few thousanths of an inch. Soaking the wood in an alcohol dye solution should result in penetration to about 1/100" (from each surface) after several days. Maybe more, if the solution is heated. Commercial processes to fully penetrate wood strips use very high pressure and temperature. Rich

   
   

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   Edited 7/8/2007 4:13 pm ET by Rich14

2. 
   Kevin | Jul 09, 2007 01:53am | #2

   I'll echo what Rich said. I have had success ebonizing 1/8" Birch dowels by placing them in a very dark black dye solution and then placing it all in a paint pressure pot and leaving it under pressurization overnight. That got me total penetration. The same dowels in the same dye without pressure only got a very minimal penetration like what Rich describes.

   I'm curious why you would choose Pear to ebonize. Surely there are less expensive, less beautiful woods which would serve the same purpose.

1. 
   woodhors | Jul 09, 2007 06:13am | #3

   Thanks Kevin and Rich for your comments. I chose pear because I had seen ebonized pear as a wood used in lots of pieces in the gallery sections of FWW and Woodwork magazines. I only assumed that pear had a high tannic acid content, but had met with no luck in my attempts to verify it. This is what prompted me to post my questions.
   I wish to veneer the feet of tapered mahogany legs ala federal style pieces. I suppose I could use real ebony, but---. I would appreciate any suggestions.
   Thanks again! - woodhors

1. 
   Rich14 | Jul 09, 2007 01:10pm | #4

   Why not use real ebony? But there's no reason not to continue to try dyeing pear using an intense dye, lots of time, heat or a pressure system. Rich

2. 
   KeithNewton | Jul 10, 2007 01:23am | #5

   I have used Feibings Leather dye for this. If you can find USMC black. don't over-do it though, it thends to blush, and show white if you can believe that when you get too much, Go figure. K

3. 
   BruceS | Jul 10, 2007 02:01am | #6

   The best "solution" I've found for ebonizing is good India Ink.  Most black dyes will give you a blue look, not so with India Ink.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   Kevin | Jul 10, 2007 03:59am | #7

   Most black dyes will give you a blue look

   That's always been my experience as well. However, I've recently discovered that some suppliers actually ADD blue dye to their black dye when packaging it for resale at normal strength. Why they do this is beyond me... What I can tell you is that M.L. Campbell's black dye concentrate is pure black with no hint of blue or purple (the other color that diluted "black" dye sometimes reveals itself to be).  MLC does add blue dye when repackaging and thinning it out to normal strength. I asked why and I got a pair of shrugging shoulders...

4. 
   Recounter | Jul 10, 2007 09:35pm | #8

   I have used Arti black dye for ebonizing and been pleased with the results.

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7433

1. 
   woodhors | Jul 10, 2007 10:55pm | #9

   Thanks to all of you for your good information. I have some scrap ebony and pear (if such a thing as scrap exists). I think I will experiment gluing the ebony and dying the pear and see which I like the best.