Replies

1. 
   JHARDE02 | Oct 17, 2002 02:35am | #1

   Don't know if Ebon-X is still around, but why don't you just use thin maple strips, then dye them with water or alcohol based dyes?  I've done this and with a half dozen coats, it works well.  Make sure you size and sand them completely before staining, otherwise you'll just sand off your carefully applied dye.  Don't ask me how I know this........

   Regards,

   John

2. 
   rushisaliar | Oct 17, 2002 03:23am | #2

   http://www.doverinlay.com/

   Why mess around when you can get the real thing?  It'll be much cheaper and easier in the long run. Dover Inlay has what you need.  Drew

1. 
   gweisenburge | Oct 17, 2002 05:23am | #3

   I agree. I've used Ebon-X, and still have a few pieces in the bin. Mine is walnut which is dyed through-and-through by pressure, much like treated railroad ties. It's as dark in the middle of the piece as it is on the surface. It's fine, except for it's porosity, which you'll see as grain in the finished product (unless filled). Real ebony isn't noticeably porous, so you won't have that problem. For your project, using such a small quantity, I'd use the real stuff, even though it's usually sold by the pound. On the other hand, Ebon-X is often the only affordable alternative when I need a lot of material.

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Oct 17, 2002 09:02am | #4

   So where can one get chunks of this ebon-x stuff?

2. 
   dkiernan | Oct 18, 2002 02:46am | #5

   Hi Gary

   I also need quite a few 1" x 1/8" strips, and I hate the thought of wasting 50% of the real ebony when I rip the strips.

   Do you know where I can buy Ebon-x?

   Thanks

   David

1. 
   gweisenburge | Oct 18, 2002 06:27am | #6

   David,

   You know, I haven't contacted the maker of Ebon-x in several years, and don't have info readily at hand. The last time I bought from him, it took a while to get my order because he was having trouble drying the finished material (I believe his dye is waterbased). My first order had a fairly high moisture content, whereas the last order was about 7%.

   I think Ebon-X is made in Michigan, however a Google search didn't turn up the manufacturer. I did find numerous mentions of it's use in furniture and turned objects. So you might try contacting one of the artists with your question. If you get real desperate, I'll go through my attic stored receipts.

   good luck,

   Gary

   PS I just had a thought. Have you thought of using Wenge? I think its about half the price of Ebony. If you aren't familiar with it, it's a very blackish brown, not pure black, like Ebony. Wenge is somewhat grainy, but when oiled with Watco or wipe on poly, its pretty black, and the grainess disappears in narrow pieces. Don't take my color-blind word for it; go buy a piece and test it yourself.

   Edited 10/17/2002 11:34:45 PM ET by Gary Weisenburger

3. 
   Shepherd1800 | Oct 18, 2002 08:01pm | #7

   You can make a servicable ebony substitute by dying holly with India Ink.  It is available in oil or water base and in large containers from art supply houses.

    

   Stephen Shepherd

    

   http://www.ilovewood.com

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Oct 18, 2002 08:37pm | #8

   Stephen --

      Do you have a process that gets the stain to penetrate deeply into the wood?  I like to use high-contrast woods as accent stripes.   I cut a channel that isn't quite as deep as the striping stock, glue in the striping, and plane it flush.   When I've tried black anilyne dye on maple, it didn't penetrate far enough, and when I planed it flush it came out black in some places, grey in others, and almost white in the worst spots.

1. 
   Shepherd1800 | Oct 18, 2002 09:19pm | #9

   Jamie,

   Holly takes the India ink quite well, it won't penetrate as deeply into maple which is much harder.  Heat the wood before applying the ink to help it penetrate deeper, if you use the water based ink, add a bit of vinegar to the ink to help it penetrate into the holly.

   Stephen Shepherd