Replies

1. 
   jeanlou | Feb 20, 2007 06:23am | #1

   BigDave

   Use a v-shaped trim bit and attach an inch and a half  square wood fence to your router base. Adjust the fence and the depth of the trim bit cut until you have exactly what you are looking for. You can trim running the fence on the edge or face.

   If you want to trim edging before applying face finish, use a straight bit, with or without a guide bearing.  No expensive add-ons required. JL

1. 
   BigDave | Apr 09, 2007 10:24am | #3

   Thanks for your response, it helped me be creative. Here is a link to the finished project, my idea of a edge band trimmer. It works great!Davehttp://bigdave.smugmug.com/gallery/712935#142274894-L-LB

1. 
   jeanlou | Apr 09, 2007 05:04pm | #5

   Dave,

   Cool! (it looks great!)  JL

2. 
   byhammerandhand | Feb 20, 2007 06:50pm | #2

   There is one in http://www.amazon.com/Building-Your-Kitchen-Cabinets-Layout-Materials-Construction-Installation/dp/0918804159/sr=8-1/qid=1171986488/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-5015561-8254414?ie=UTF8&s=books

   It basically is a thicker sub-base with grooves in the appropriate places to allow the oversize trim through.

1. 
   BigDave | Apr 09, 2007 10:25am | #4

   Thanks for your response. Here is a link to my finished edge band trimmer. It works great.Davehttp://bigdave.smugmug.com/gallery/712935#142274894-L-LB

1. 
   FinishbyDesign | Apr 09, 2007 06:31pm | #6

   Dave,Looks great! Did you allow any adjustment on the router or is it fixed in position?J

1. 
   BigDave | Apr 09, 2007 07:30pm | #7

   Yes I have a slot on the back side to allow up to 1 1/2" adjustment. The back fence just pivots with a bolt on one side and the other side has the bolt in the slot with a jig knob on it. At this time I am only trimming iron-on edging. I will have to adjust for 1/4 inch solid edging.

3. 
   Routerman | Apr 09, 2007 11:24pm | #8

   Is this what you're talking about?

   Bottom of plate is wasted so the machine can hover over the proud stock and waste it.

   Routers

1. 
   BigDave | Apr 10, 2007 03:45am | #9

   Routerman
   That is an interesting concept. It looks simple but is the baseplate easy to use? I like the dedicated trimmer I made and because I had two trim routers, I could easily dedicate one to this table. (see link)
   http://bigdave.smugmug.com/gallery/712935#142274894-L-LBIt has an adjustable fence (pivots) and can trim even 1/4" solid edging with a straight flush trim bit. I use a 7 degree flush trim bit for the iron on edging.Thanks for your ideas too.

1. 
   KeithNewton | Apr 10, 2007 04:28pm | #10

   Hey Big Dave, I did the tour through your slide-show. Nice work! I would like to know more about the stair. Do you have finished pictures of the rails etc.How did you attacth to the floor and top?

4. 
   cowtown | May 18, 2007 09:11am | #11

   I just gotta ask the question....

   Why use a router at all for trimming iron-on edge banding.

   Why even turn on the dust collector and the router when a simple 20ish dollar virutex trimmer will do the job faster, quieter and with less dust, and moreover do it in the same set up that you applied the edge banding.

   Moreover, as yer router- even if it is hyper-precise, is still gonna leave razor edges which you gotta blunt with a file, and if it ain't hyper-precise,, yer gonna have to finish file the edges anyway, which you'll likely accomplish by remounting it right were you edge banded it.

   And that jig posted, well it is carefully made, but it ain't gonna trim a warped panel flush on both sides. Ergo, you gotta be able to deal with that . Thereby making the economics of using a 120ish electrical machine to do what 60ish in handtools would accomplish faster and quieter still ain't making sense to me.

   And I ain't talking though my hat, I used the similar set up on my router table (really tall fence) and determined that it was not faster or better. Gave up on it. Took longer, and the more you move the stock, the more likely you are to cause dings and chips.

   With melamine edge banding, this methodology was innefective in time utilization, required more physical effort moving panels, made more noise and increase my risk of damaging panels. It still required manual filing. It could not handle warped panels. There were no plusses to my mind.

   Now if yer talkin 1/4" solid edge banding, that's a horse of a different colour. The router table variant can be equivalent in time and trouble, but it's still not a panacea. You gotta climb cut, or else yer gonna get tear out with grain direction changes. And it takes but a mere slight maladjustment and yer ply veneer is toast. Besides, a melamine panel can take a surface bump or two more without damage than a plywood panel can take. Too much risk for this fella.

   Instead my preferred methodology is to use a transitional (wood bottom) plane which I have routed a groove in the bottom. There is no way the blade can come in contact with the ply suface,but it will plane the edge banding- and it is easily reversed to accomodate grain direction (unlike the electical lipping planers-) and then finish it flush with a cabinet scraper. For the planologists out there, I did mill a similar flute down the sole of a sacraficial #4, and while in theory it would work the same, in practice it didn't.

   For 3mil plastic edging, the few times I've encountered it, I've simply carefully used a flush trimming bit freehand , although I confess that that was the reason that I tried the tall fence on the router table-thinking that it would also be useful for iron on edgebanding too.

   I love jigs, made a few along the way. Some of em winners, lots of em losers.

   Hopefully my perspective puts another slant on the subject.

   Eric

1. 
   Scrit | May 18, 2007 03:50pm | #12

   "Why use a router at all for trimming iron-on edge banding.

   Why even turn on the dust collector and the router when a simple 20ish dollar virutex trimmer will do the job faster, quieter and with less dust, and moreover do it in the same set up that you applied the edge banding."

   Why spend $20 on a Virutex doohickey when a $3.00 Stanley glass scraper will do the job........

   Scrit

   Edited 5/18/2007 8:50 am by Scrit

1. 
   colebearanimals | May 18, 2007 06:47pm | #13

   Hi Scrit,

          I think the original poster was using the trimmer  for initial trimming not clean-up. :)

                                 Paul

1. 
   Scrit | May 18, 2007 07:56pm | #14

   For melamine and 0.8mm PVC edging a glass scraper will actualy trim for you. No need for extra tools

   Scrit

1. 
   colebearanimals | May 18, 2007 10:12pm | #15

   No kidding?  I typically use edgebanding that's 15/16" for 3/4" stock. That scraper will trim cut that much? I'll have to try it. Thanks for the tip.

                                Paul

2. 
   Scrit | May 18, 2007 10:23pm | #16

   A Virutex wouldn't cut that either. The Virutex is designed to trim 1mm edge banding. I have a Virtutex and a scraper sitting on the bench at the end of the edge bander - they are useful for one-offs, etc. 15/16in is what we call solid wood lipping and that is dealt with on the JKO lipping trimmer or for the really big stuff using a Virutex lipping plane. It helps if you know and use use the correct terminology: edge banding = thin stuff, lipping = thicker than about 3mm (at least according to my suppliers)

    

   Edited 5/18/2007 3:24 pm by Scrit

   Edited 5/18/2007 3:24 pm by Scrit

3. 
   colebearanimals | May 18, 2007 10:44pm | #17

   I just checked my last post and discovered I wasn't clear. The 15/16" ( wide ) edgebanding is what I typically use on 3/4" ( thick ) stock, sheetgoods or otherwise. So, the glass scraper will trim the overhang?

                            Paul

4. 
   Scrit | May 19, 2007 12:38am | #18

   Ah! Edge banding tape over here is generally either 22mm or 25mm wide (so 7/8 or 1in wide). Providing the surface of the stock is reasonably smooth and hard I've found that a glass scraper will trim 1mm melamine without problems. Angle the cutter in towards the work from the outside and runb the blade on its bevel. It can take a couple of tries to get the knack, but once you've acquired it it works well. When doing in-situ repairs on Point of Sale (retail) stands or kitchen cabs I take a heat gun, a polished chrome-plated screwdriver and my cheapo glass scraper - and it can do one thing a Virutex hand trimmer can't - trim the edge banding on curved profiles

   Scrit 

   Edited 5/19/2007 5:47 am by Scrit

5. 
   colebearanimals | May 19, 2007 04:24am | #19

   Another trick in my arsenal. Thanks

                           Paul

2. 
   cowtown | May 20, 2007 07:59am | #20

   The "original" poster, and I ain't sure I is he, but if I is the guilty party, I was indeed referring to to initial trimmeration.  If it was me yer talkin bout, I follow up with a keen chisel to get close, and drawfile. I buysted enuf edgebanding moving it around to realize that the less you move it, the less rework you gotta do.

   Can you give me some more info on the "stanley glass scraper" I is totally unfamiliar with that nomenclature.

   Burnishing with a chrome screwdriver shank makes sense to me, but if you got a file in yer hand, and yer draw filing, why not just change the angle?

   For site work, to touch up that part yu missed first and maybe second time around, I use the dull side of an Olfa knife tip. I functions just as well as a cabinet scraper in this application. OK maybe not quite as smooth and slick, but it's good enuf.

   Eric in Cowtown

2. 
   craig | May 21, 2007 07:53am | #21

   why not just use a plane, plane iron, or scraper? A razor blade works for cleanup.