Anybody know of a company that would edge band some cherry plywood (for a kitchen I’m building) on a reasonable timeframe once the panels are cut? I am at my son’s house which is located in Berkeley, Ca. (San Francisco area).
Thanks. The timeframe for the work is in about two weeks. And since I’m “visiting”, I don’t have access to e-mail … so please respond here and I’ll contact you offline.
John
Replies
John,
Have you ever considered the Burgess Edge? (http://www.burgessedge.com) I have since a couple of articles on it in the various magazines and have visited the web site. Looks very interesting to me. Perhaps one of the Knotheads here has actually used it and could shed a little more light on this.
Of course, may not be an option for you situation...
RR
RR,
This looks interesting, but I don't see how it can really be used for cabinets where you quite often have a piece of plywood that needs banding on more than one edge. Let's take a drawer front, for example. Using normal edgeband, I'd first do the bottom, but off, then do the sides (note that this puts the joint on the underside of the drawer, where it won't be seen), cut the sides, and then do the top. It seems to me that the Burgess Edge wouldn't work well (or as well) in such a situation. Am I missing something?
I can, however, think of lots of applications where this technology would be absolutely wonderful. I'm going to keep this info around and may use it.
John
John,
Good question. And I don't know for sure, but I would think that you could miter the ends of the hardwood pieces that would go around plywood if you had more than one edge of the plywood exposed???
RR
Actually, you're dead on. I was thinking you had to glue in the "band" before working on another edge, but that's clearly not the case. With careful work, my banded drawer would look better with this method than true edge banding.
However, the project we're on can't take the hand work involved (cost is important here), so we'll go with the edge banding.
Another interesting approach about your suggestion is that the solid wood banding can be any thickness you want. They recommend quite a thick piece to make gluing easier, and you could put a routed edge on it or do lots of other edge treatments.
John
John,
I am actually becoming more and more intrigued by this the more we talk about it! I am trying to come up with a project idea that would justify it to the boss (my wife!).
RR
I've thought more about it, and getting the "wide" edge at the correct thickness and also registered correctly with the plywood would be a real bear. I am sure it works great if you rip the edge fairly thin, because the router bit cuts the edge to the correct dimensions for the inlay plus the residual portion. I just can't figure out how you'd get the rest of the edge band in line with the routed portion if you wanted a wider edge.
Anyway, if you do get this setup let me know how you like it and what creative things you've done with it.
John
John,
I agree, a wider edge would be a problem. Off the top of my head, I cannot think of how it could be down in any fashion that would be efficient or easy.
RR
If you want tape edgebanding, Bartlett Cabinets, in San Francisco, has a big edgebander, and does lot of work for other cabinet shops. 415.822.4206
Edited 9/27/2003 11:41:50 AM ET by JAMIE_BUXTON
Jamie, this is exactly what I needed. Thanks much.
John
John:
Have you called White Bros. in Oakland? They mill their own hardwood mouldings and sell hardwood. They might do it or be a great resource for the East Bay.
Eric in Oakland.
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