Replies

1. 
   SCFrankland | Apr 02, 2002 05:20am | #1

   Tom I would clamp a long straight edge (angle iron or something along that line) to the panel and use a router with a flush trimming bit installed to joint the edge. As for flattening the top I would lay it on the shop floor, shim it level and use a sander that you would use for sanding floors followed by some handplaning and scraping. If the floor sander is out, than this would be a good reason to buy that Jack plane we talked about last Thursday. That way you can use windings sticks and do it all by hand with your planes.

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

1. 
   TomFerreira | Apr 02, 2002 03:55pm | #5

   Scott,

   Don't know anything about winding sticks. Could you please explain?

   TDF

1. 
   TomFerreira | Apr 02, 2002 05:29pm | #6

   Found the answers to my questions in the archives.

   Thanks

   TDF

2. 
   Danford_C_ | Apr 02, 2002 07:04am | #2

   Tom,

   Well since you do have a Copleland jointer, I would suggest using that for edge jointing, put that baby to use. :-)  Personally, I would go with splined edge joints using hide or a urea resin glue using cauls for the glue up.  As I think I mentioned last Thursday night, I have my #6 set up as a smoother for doing such work.  Your Copland could also be used.  FWIW.

   Dano

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
1. 
   TomFerreira | Apr 02, 2002 03:53pm | #4

   Dano/Scott,

   First of all could you explain how cauls are used? I understand that they are effectively shims used to hold the panel flat but shims between the top and what? I guess I can't visualize the setup.

   Secondly, what is urea resin glue? I was going to use West Epoxy because I need a long working time. I don't think PVA will do it. By the time I get the glue spread and the joint clamped I probably need 20-30 minutes working time. These panels weigh about 100# each.

   I had thought of using a spline, but if the two panels aren't perfectly matched in straightness and flatness I worry that the joint will not go together. 8/4 stock is not very compliant. I guess was just going to butt join them.

   Yes, I could use the Copeland but thats a scary thought at my experience level, although I guess I can't do any worse than try and have to do something different.

   TDF

3. 
   BenM | Apr 02, 2002 03:07pm | #3

   I did something similar about 5 years ago when I made my workbench.  I joined two pieces of 8/4 hard maple, about 8 feet long.  I snapped a chalk line along the edges to be joined and sawed to the line.  I then used a #8 jointer plane to get it really straight.  With one piece securely fastened on edge to the workbench base (which was finished by then) I placed the second piece on top of the first and constantly tested, checked and marked where the gaps were.  I also made sure, with a straight edge, that the two boards were flat with respect to each other, to minimize planing after glue-up.  When I was satisfied that I was as close as I could get I glued it.  Just used yellow glue; no biscuits, splines or dowels. The hardest part was continually lifting the second piece for positioning on the first piece.  Minor flattening was done with the jointer and winding sticks (yes, my workbench top is flat).

4. 
   PlaneWood | Apr 02, 2002 05:49pm | #7

   Tom -

   I have used this technique with good results.  First get relatively straight edges on both boards.  I have used a skil saw and a guide board to do this on thick long boards.  Then lay them out on a flat work surface and clamp boards across the ends on the bottom with about 1/4" gap between the two boards to be jointed .  Using a guide board, make a pass with a  router taking off about 1/8" from each board.  Adjust for a deeper cut, and do another pass.   Might take 3 or 4 passes.  I would use a 1/2" straight bit with a 1/2" shank.  A sturdy high powered router is required.  Mark a point on your router base and keep that point against the guide board when doing the passes.  I would use a 1x12 as the guide board and you might want to rig up a long reach clamp in the center as well as the ends.

   I think I would use 1" dowels on 12" centers when joining.  I would use the pre-mixed hide glue in a bottle because of it's long set-up time.  Rig up a jig to drill the dowel holes so that they are drilled perfectly perpendicular to the jointed faces.  One way to do this is to attach, with screws, a 2x4 to the bottom edge of 1x12 piece of plywood.  Drill the 1" pilot holes in the 2x4 first on your drill press.  After drilling the dowel holes on one face of the jointed boards, then move the 2x4 to the other edge of the 1x12 and drill the holes on the other jointed face.  Use a 1" wood boring bit as opposed to using a forstner bit.  A forstner bit can be used if you insert a 1" guide collar on the shank behind the cutting face.

   Flattening the top - Joint the edge of a 2x4 that is about 4' long. Glue 150 grit sand paper to the edge.  Use that to find the high spots then work on the high spots with a hand plane.  I would do this only after the top has been mated to the table base.

   Good luck, and don't get in a hurry.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood