Wife wants a display case made up of 3/4″ X 3/4″ material mitred at 45 at the corners, with glass inserts. Essentially, it’s glass on all four sides and top, then rests on a wooden pedestal. Other than exposed splines, any ideas on how to securely join these small pieces of wood at the corners?
I don’t think glue alone will be strong enough due to the end grain. Don’t want to use brads or a micro pinner. Even if I bump up the dimensions to 1″ X 1″, I won’t have the 1.5″ required to use mini biscuits.
Regards,
John
Replies
John, your application sounds similar to a jersey display I made recently. Do you have any molding going around the top/front? Is there a lid that has to work on hinges?
The following link has feedback and vigorously stated opinions on what people thought would and wouldn't work. I ended up using the joint I illustrated, with 45-degree molding overlayed on the edge. It seems very solid and rigid.
A lock-miter joint would be great, but for a one-off piece it can be very time-consuming to set up.
http://forums.taunton.com/messages.?msg=8468.1&
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Good info in the link. Yes, it's similiar to a jersey display. Actually, it's to be two wood and glass cases to enclose two barbie dolls (one in each). Wife wants them to keep dust and stuff off. I guess they are collectibles or something. I don't ask, I just build what I'm told..... :)
It will basically be a cube, with glass on all four sides and the top, and a wood base. My plan is to make the wood cube, and use double strength glass from Home Depot or Lowes. I may need to go with wood thick enough that when it is mitered at 45 degrees, the resulting mitered surface is slightly more than 1.5", allowing me to use mini biscuits. Another choice would be to just glue up end grain to end grain mitres, then cut in splines that would show. This should be plenty strong.
Only thing I haven't figured out is how to attach the vertical frame pieces to the horizontal square. Does this description make sense? Basically, I'll create a wooden square with glass in the middle, captured in 1/8" saw kerfs. I suppose I can just bevel the bottoms at 45 degrees, then glue them up, long grain to long grain.
This should work I suppose.
Regads,
John
I'm not totally clear on what the configuration of the display is, but I do have a voice whispering in my ear that the thickness of wood you're talking about might look out-of-balance with such a tiny display object as a Barbie. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Having built terrariums, fishtanks, etc., I'd deal with the problem in a different way.
I'd very carefully cut my glass sides, making sure they are square and I'd glue them together using silicone. I'd cut the top and glue that in position and I'd make the pedestal and fix to it a plinth about 1/2" high, the exact same size as the internal dimensions of the showcase.
The corner beads can now be cut and finished (otherwise the silicone will reject the finish) and siliconed in position on the glass case. (Incidentally, I agree with forestgirl here that 3/4" x 3/4" will look too heavy -- I'd prefer 1/2" x 1/2")
The finished case fits over the raised plinth on the pedestal.
The glass sides can be trued up if necessary with a coarse carborundum stone or by rubbing them on coarse sandpaper on a flat surface.
IanDG
John
I agree with IanDG. Make the glass the main structural element not the wood. Cases like you describe are available commercially in Japan (also to protect dolls). From when I last saw one, the glass was maybe 1/8 in thick, or possibly thinner and the frame probably 3/8 in. Maybe Norm-in-Fujimo can provide more detail.
Get each piece of glass cut exactly to size with four square corners - the box can be rectangular. Mill and finish a timber bead with rebates for the glass on two adjacent sides. When you are ready use silicone adhesive to hold the glass to the beading - do a three way mitre at the corners. Lastly make the base to fit the glass box.
Good luck
Ian
Great idea on making the glass the structural component. Hadn't thought of that. I intend to bevel or ogee the 3/4" wood trim to make it less noticable, but may go with 1/2". BTW, the case will be pretty good size, as the Barbie is wearing a huge, hand made wedding dress. The base will need to be about 14" X 17" to fit her all in there. Since there is so little wood involved, I plan on making a prototype or two.
What kind of adhesive should I use to join the glass? You said silicone. Is this just something in a tube? Can I assume double strengthl glass from the Depot or Lowes would suffice? This stuff is a little less than 1/8" thick.
Another idea I had was to just use four vertical frame members of 1/2" wood, with the glass captured in a saw kerf with adhesive. This would make the four glass sides, then I'd just set this down on top of the base, and set the lid down on top of the sides. Pretty simple. I'd rout a detail on the four vertical supports to add an interesting touch, and mitre the lid pieces and use an ogee detail on the edge.
Regards,
John
John,Yes, just silicone caulk in a tube -- there are various types (personally I think only the packaging is different!) so buy the one for glazing. Don't try and wipe off the excess, it's much easier to let it dry and trim it with a sharp knife.IanDG
Agree with the two Ians. A great suggestion
I've seen this done with a large display case 6' wide by 2' deep x 8' tall. Beading on the corners was 3/4" and did not distract at all from the contents. Pity this thing was in an antique shop, or else I'd have bought it. (No, don't ask the price, was well into the four figures).
You could get away with 3/8" bead in this case.
Cheers,
eddie
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