I have 8/4 x 6 inch ash that I would like to edge-join in order to obtain an 8-inch wide board to use for a leg vise on a Roubo-style bench. I can’t find wider ash locally. I wonder about how to make the strongest board. Should the joint be the centerline of the board, or should I shift the joint to one side of center?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
My initial reaction would be to settle on a 6" wide vise, so it would be one solid piece. But, if one goes by the old axiom that the glue joint is stronger than the wood, placement of the joint might not matter. Having solid wood around the screw still seems intuitively better, though.
Just my opinion.
Ash takes glue well and a very forgiving wood to work with (Most of the time)...
Not sure how long the stick you have is? I would do a glue-up with three sections. The middle (for the screw hole) and it mate's on each side.
I do these type of glue-up's all the time (not for a vice) and with modern glues I would think it will last forever. You may even try a two layer thick glue-up with solid wood overlapping the glue joints.
Rather than worrying too much about where to put the joint, I'd work more on ensuring that it is the best joint possible. That means it must be very precisely fitted. Just passing over the jointer isn't likely to be enough. After it is ready, lay one board on edge, and in an otherwise dim shop with strong light behind, be sure you can see no light behind the two boards.. Mark spots that keep the boards apart and correct, either with a hand plane or pointer. Often you will find a small swirl or knot in the wood at that point.
(One good way on a jointer set for a light cut is to first remove the offending are only, by lowering the board onto the jointer to plane away that spot (and a few inches either sice). Then, with the jointer sstill set the same, plane the entire board carefully.
Then after gathering your clamps, apply your favorite glue to both sides, and clamp firmly. With two inch stock there is almost no way to overclamp short of a hydraulic press.)
With the wood chosen to have similar grain on either side (which you also want for structural reasons so they expand and contract in width the same as humidity changes) you could very well end up with an edge joint that you won't be able to detect short of using a glass on the end grain.
In the usual board-holding scenario, there wouldn't be any more pressure on the attached pieces than there would be on the center segment. Thus, there wouldn't be a pressure differential that would cause the joint to fail.
Of course, if the vise were to be used for bending metal, or something similar, you might have two problems. One, fixing the vise, but that would be after explaining to the police why you shot the person who ruined it.
Regarding "explaining to the
Regarding "explaining to the police why you shot the person who ruined it" I thought that was what pig stickers were for.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled