Edge routing 2″x2″ trim
Cilversteading
| Posted in Jigs, Fixtures, Tips & Tricks on
I have a project that requires 2″x2″ trim. I have been searching for information on how to route a 2×2 piece of wood, but I am having a hard time finding anything.
Can anyone link me a tutorial on how to go about doing this or maybe explain to me how this is done?
Replies
I doubt there is such a thing. What type of profile are you trying to cut? How long are the boards? Are they milled straight or are you using lumber yard dimensional lumber?
The safest way is a router table. Do you have one?
Small profiles could be cut with a trim router easy enough but larger more elaborate ones will need a larger router and some type of sled to hold the workpiece and provide a larger more stable platform.
I do plan on using a router table. I will be building one for the project for sure.
I actually don't know what kind of profile would look good, so I haven't decided on anything yet.
The boards are 6' and 1'10". I haven't shopped for the lumber yet. I plan on using poplar though.
I am still quite new to woodworking, so I don't know how to route the "large" trim.
2x2x what length? Safest way is to rout the profile on the edge of a wide 2" thick board and then rip it off at the table saw.
I guess I didn't clarify very well. I cannot find a router bit that will cut a 2x2 nicely. Which means there must be a technique to achieve this in two cuts with a smaller bit. I just don't know what kind of bit I should use to achieve this.
I don't understand the request. What are you routing a 2 x 2 on? Is a single piece that is 2 x 2 square with a profile? Then you mention a 6' and 1' 10". A drawing or simple sketch would help. Maybe someone else on the board could elaborate. Sorry for the confusion.
It is a 2"x2"x72" and a 2"x2"x22"
it is the wedge shaped trim pieces... They won't actually be wedges though, that is just a placeholder shape for it.
Decide on an approximate profile and draw it on paper. Try to divide it into multiple boards that you can glue together after routing each. It's called a built-up molding.
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Built-up molding as _MJ_ suggested is a good way to go if you can. It's generally easier to find better quality wood in thinner pieces and probably safer if you can use smaller router cutters.
What is the profile you're interested in creating?
I'm not too sure yet. Now that I know my limitations, I have to figure that out. If anyone has any tips on what might look good, I am more than willing to accept suggestions!
Is there supposed to be a specific style to the piece? How large is it? Can you share the .skp file?
It would seem I cannot upload the .skp file.
It is 22"D, 72"W, 19"H
I am making it for a friend for his modernish Texas home.
If you put the .skp file into a .zip file you can upload that.
Modernish? As in Mid-Century Modern or more modern than that?
If you want a modern look I recommend sticking with the bevel you show or a simple cove, both of which can be cut on the tablesaw. Any profiled molding is going to give it a more traditional look.
Thank you for the clarification. As others above suggested, I would agree with the use of multiple boards with specific profiles for the final deign. I am wondering how I would do the final build, glue up everything then cut the miter or do a base then attaching the individual trim pieces pretty much like doing door or window trim. The thought of trying to get a tight miter with a long complex board is not something I would enjoy doing. Good luck!!!
And I would not have a sharp thin top corner as that will get dinged up pretty quickly
Hmm, you bring up a good point. I will have to think about what steps I need to take for this. Thanks for the input on the corners!
I'm new to routing too and have only done some trim profiles on a coopered tray (small pieces) with help from esch's advice. If you're starting with something complex, there is a lot to learn for sure. I would start learning by watching this video series from Bob Van Dyke:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/09/17/ep-3-router-table-fundamentals-edge-profiles-rabbets
I think it would be worth considering learning to incorporate use of a couple of hollows and rounds (wooden planes) with the router work.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/handplanes/create-custom-moldings-handplanes
This bookshelf has trim that I made with a 1/2" hollow and round planes:
If you click on ecyor you'll see the coopered trays I made. There's a learning curve with both techniques, but the hand-planes' advantage is you chew up less wood learning.
It could be any combination of two profiles stacked and mitered independently then assembled to the frame or a 2 X 2 beveled on the tablesaw.
This is getting a bit spread out as far replying to different segments so I will start over.
What your drawing shows is a basic crown molding, which you can certainly buy router bits to cut a crown molding but without know what profile you want it is hard to suggest one. From the drawing it looks like your design is Shaker style which would suggest simple moldings be used, but it's your design so you can choose. A simple cove may be nice and could even be cut on the tablesaw. If a modern look is what you are after even the bevel you show would work.
I do have some questions about the design. What is the top constructed of, is it solid wood or plywood? How thick is it? The reason I ask is your decision to apply a molding like that is a bit out of the ordinary and could pose some construction challenges depending upon the top material.
Now for the bottom molding. Your choice of use of the same molding as at the top is highly unusual. It might work if your goal is to have a modern piece, but a traditional design would have more of a baseboard style molding. See the picture I have attached.
The last design question I have is, did you intentionally make the doors with full width rails? Standard door design would be to have full height stiles. This design would be more harmonious with your side panels. I also wonder if hinge placement could be a problem in your design. I'm not sure I would want a hinge to span the seam and I wonder if there would be enough wood movement in the rails to cause a problem if the hinges were located within them. Mounting the hinges entirely within the stiles would probably be unbalance aesthetically if visible but otherwise acceptable given the moderately small size of the door.
Solid wood top 3/4" thickness
I personally kind of like the bevel myself, but the person I am making it for wants something like french baroque.
The top molding doesn't need to be identical to the bottom molding, It was just my opinion that something so wide and deep but short would look good with the same size bottom molding as the top molding. I am inexperienced, so I am probably wrong on this.
Lastly, I chose full width rails intentionally. Unfortunately, my friend wants it painted. It made sense to me to do it this way to prevent the paint from cracking at the joint as it ages due to less stress on the joint.
On a side note, I am thoroughly impressed by the community here. You guys have been incredibly helpful!
Thank you so much!
Okay first with a solid wood top the first layer of you molding profile should be in the top itself, not an applied molding so the top needs to overhang the case enough to allow for whatever other moldings you are using. You also need to factor in that the top plus 2 additional layers of 3/4" molding is 2¼" not 2" make sure you allow for than extra ¼".
French Baroque couldn't be any further from your design and frankly beyond the capabilites of most woodworkers but a multi-layered molding is simple enough to do. As for the base French Baroque would definitely need feet or a ornate baseboard style base not the molding you show. I do not know what tools you have available but a bandsaw would make your job a lot easier.
I would definitely consider making the doors in a conventional manner, the paint is going to crack regardless and I can see no advantage to doing a non standard design and a couple of potential pitfalls.
Lastly I will suggest using soft maple instead of poplar. Popular is so soft you will be constantly removing dents as you go along and afterwards the owner will continue to get dings from the slightest contact. Soft maple is significantly harder and only slightly more expensive. I also find more tension in poplar and tendencies to twist and warp.
If your client wants something "French Baroque" (17th-18th c) - the absolute first thing I would be doing is looking at historical examples of that. First though, you wouldn't find a chest/cabinet from that period that is not on a type of leg or bun feet under deep molding typically - but there are exceptions. In the 18th c. you would find more case pieces with "base"molding to the floor - option to look at examples little later. If you do some research though, you will be able to get an idea of the "molding shapes" that were used and then perhaps adapt them or find similar ready mades/pieces/parts. I would say that I'm not sure how French Baroque is related to the style cabinet body though? I wonder if your client knows what a molding series from that period looks like really?
Something tells me your client wouldn't know a French Baroque from a French Bulldog until it bit him on the leg. The style is curvy and elaborately carved and / or decorated. (It could also be the name of a Benjamin Moore color.)
With that said, smile and nod and build whatever will make them happy!
You might be surprised. Though overall effect is elaborately ornate without a doubt e.g. Boulle furniture - the actual individual molding elements for upper and lower parts are fairly simple. Ogees, fillets, coves, round overs, etc.
You can find some simple individual moldings but they usually combined to a very elaborate piece of furniture. Baroque is an Italian style that spans a long period, what would be French baroque would include Louis XIII and the next 4 styles and if you used a simple molding on top of a squarish buffet no one would associate it to the style. We are far far away from the 2 X 2 we started with.
Gulfstar - By the by, "the Baroque" is a "time period" - irrespective of nation or place. Within that rough period different design styles came to be in different countries and may be referred to as French Baroque or Italian Baroque e.g. Additionally, the Germans Bach and Handel are Baroque composers...because they composed roughly within that period. Nice plate with the early French moldings too. Kudos.
Baroque covers so much that it's a pretty meaningless term. Louis XIV was Baroque, as was Queen Anne. Bernie Madoff went baroque.
Cliversteading, Welcome to the hobby of woodworking.
If you have a custom cabinet shop near by you might want to outsource making the (for lack of better term) "crown moulding" and "baseboard moulding" several inches longer than required and then you can just cut it and fit it to size on the cabinet. The cabinet shop will have some standard template mouldings that you and your client can pick out. If you use this method make a prototype template by cutting a scrap piece of another piece of wood or plywood to the actual size of the moulding and use it to set "stops" when cutting the actual moulding from the cabinet shop. Some basic crown and baseboard mouldings may also be available in limited wood species at your lumber supplier.
If it were me, based upon your drawing, I'd go with a modern shaker style cabinet. Follow the suggestion for the stiles on the doors being full length. I'd add a shelf lip (1.25" to 1.5") to add visual balance. I'd add a similar edge profile to the countertop as the shelf lip (I think it is a countertop from your drawing - if not I'd go with a simple cove crown moulding). And then make a traditional recessed minimalist baseboard to allow access to cabinet without stubbing toes.
Now my opinion is just that. What is important is what you and your client envision.
P.S. If you are building in the cabinet keep in mind that no home has level and straight walls and floors. There are design considerations on built-ins to account for these home irregularities. Pick up a good design guide on custom cabinets and follow their recommendations.
This might be helpful (available online as part of Fine Woodworking Unlimited Membership):
The Complete Illustrated Guide to Furniture and Cabinet Construction by Andy Rae.
https://archives.finewoodworking.com/finewoodworking/furniture-and-cabinet-construction/flipbook/1/
The Best of Fine Woodworking Guide to Shaker Detail - Shaker Furniture
https://archives.finewoodworking.com/finewoodworking/shaker-furniture/flipbook/0/
P.P.S If you are using hardwood vs. plywood or mdf you need to account for wood movement in your design. Wood moves across the grain much more than with the long grain and if not designed properly can lead to warped panels or joint failure.
Attached photo is a simple cove crown moulding and recessed baseboard.
In addition to watching ALL of Bob Van Dyke's excellent router fundamental course linked above, I recommend you have a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYaU01gSBJE which is a good look at how to build up mouldings.
I find designing them myself quite challenging so tend to copy old designs.
Remember always that there is no sewing back on what a router cuts off, so start with light cuts and gain confidence before you chuck up a massive bit and find half your hand just disappeared in a puff of red mist.
Rob, That video was very instructive in how to build up a moulding. Thank you!
I don’t think your coming to find specific info on this particularly.
-So, I’d recommend three things.
1) if your new to routers and it’s sounds like you maybe, please watch something on router setup/safety/etc; like maybe Colin Kentch [spelling if probably off 🤔] or stumpy nubs.
2) search for a video on what direction you should feed your stock (if using a router table) or direction to route (if using a router in hand): -again Stumpy Nubs and Johnathan Katz-Moses would be my recommendation .
3) look at work holding videos: like renaissance woodworker. If using your router handheld and your bit allows clearance of your work surface, I’d recommend sticking it down with double stick tape (not the wrapping part kind, the shop kind 🤣).
-I’m not endorsing the guys I listed per se for any reason but that their easy to find, have made multiple easily understandable videos on these subjects, and hit the most important issues. There are plenty of other good guys to watch on these things, but probably get into specific ideas that aren’t going to serve you that well in this situation. Stumpy Nubs and Johnathan Karz-Moses will suit your needs for this one.
-You did not say (than I could find) what profile you’re trying to route (round over/chamfer/etc), but if it’s chamfer your going for I’d suggest maybe doing it by had with a block plane or smoothing plane. It would save you loads of set up time and reduce the mess and dust.
-Finally: be sure to do a test run on a piece of scrap (large enough to keep you fingers on your hands) when you think you’ve got what you believe your setup right. If it’s just off a bit, adjust and then do a second do a test run on the other side.
-Good Luck & Be Safe👍
Just my 2¢- SMEAC
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled