Replies

1. 
   JeffHeath | Oct 13, 2006 10:42pm | #1

   Eric

   Do you own a bandsaw?  If so, it's a much easier, faster, and safer cut than on a tablesaw, and you don't need a jig.  Just draw a straight line, or snap one with a chalk line, and cut it.  Done.

   Jeff

    

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 13, 2006 11:04pm | #3

   Jeff said "it's a much easier, faster, and safer cut than on a tablesaw, and you don't need a jig.  Just draw a straight line, or snap one with a chalk line, and cut it."

   Hey, I understand the band saw vs the table saw debate, and there's no doubt that a bs is safer than a ts. But faster? I don't think so. And, if you can get a jointer-quality straight edge from a bs -- freehand no less -- like you can (and should) with a ts and a good blade, you are a woodworking Superman and I'd be proud to meet ya!

    ;-)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   JeffHeath | Oct 13, 2006 11:14pm | #5

   Mike

   How did I go from trying to lend a bit of information to suddenly being superman. 

   For a new woodworker, using a tablesaw to create a jointer free edge on a warped or twisted board, which is the whole reason for him to build his jig in the first place, is not only impractical, it's UNSAFE.

   Let's give the new guys sound advice that works for them, not a 20 year pro.

   I never said he wouldn't need to joint the edge of the board, which he'll also have to do with the tablesaw cut, anyway.

   By faster, I meant that by the time he's got the jig out, installed the twisted or warped board in it, fastened it SAFELY, adjusted the saw for correct width rip, blah, blah, blah, ..............he could have ripped to a line on the bandsaw, passed it through his jointer, and move on to building furniture.

   That's how I do it, and I think it's faster, and I know it's safer.

   I couldn't care less about some bs debate between bandsaws vs. tablesaws.  They're both in my shop, and I use them both daily.

   Jeff

    10/13/2006 4:20 pm ET by JeffHeath

   Edited 10/13/2006 4:20 pm ET by JeffHeath

   Edited 10/13/2006 4:26 pm ET by JeffHeath

1. 
   bakesale1 | Oct 13, 2006 11:38pm | #6

   I like John Ws idea.  Tage Frid has a jig for the operation in his book.

2. 
   user-211435 | Oct 13, 2006 11:43pm | #7

   I have been using guides on my table saw to straightline lumber for years.

   I have a perfectly straight 1 x 8 that is 12 feet long, a 1 x 6 that is 10 ft long, and a ripping from a piece of VG fir plywood that is 8 ft long. 

   I simply attach the guide board to the piece I want to rip with a 4 penny bright finish nail tacked into each end, and rip the board that is on the bottom.  Works perfectly every time and when finished I merely put the guide back in it's place in one of my lumber racks near the saw.  You must hold the guide board againt the table saw fence, not the board you are ripping.

   I can straightline a large stack of lumber in no time.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

1. 
   Oldtool | Oct 14, 2006 03:57am | #8

   I too use a very straight  board that is about a 1x6x6. I don't have room for a plainer so I straight line everything with this one board and simply hold the unstraight board against the straight one and move both together and take off sixteenth and keep it up until I get what I want. I never have a problem. If I buy alot of rough lumber with no edge line, I will cut the board up into the approximate lenghts I will be using and make it easyer to use with the 1x6x6 staighting board.

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 16, 2006 03:00pm | #11

   Jeff, I agree with you about most of the things in your post. But I was not under the impression that the stock the OP wanted to put a straight edge on was warped or twisted -- just not straight along the edge. I get all my lumber rough-cut from the mill. It's flat and true, but never has a straight edge. So after I thickness the wood, the next step is to put one straight edge on each piece. I do that by either using a straight-edge guide and a circular saw (for pieces over 8' long) or I screw a piece of ply with a straight edge to the workpiece, registering the ply to the fence, and rip it. This is no more dangerous than any other rip cut on the TS. It takes about a minute and does yield a jointer-quality edge if you have a decent saw and fence. (I haven't taken the blanket off my jointer for about a year -- I almost never need it. And if I do, I'll usually pick up a hand plane to do the job.)

   As for the superman line, I hope you noticed the " ;-) " after it! For me, a straight line is definately something you will NOT see coming out of MY bandsaw. That's one tool that I have never been able to master and probably never will. So, if are one of those who can get a straight line from a BS (and I am not doubting you can), props to you! Your method is perfectly valid. So is mine. So is the method chosen by the OP. That's the great thing about this hobby -- there is seldom one "right" answer.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

    

1. 
   JeffHeath | Oct 16, 2006 10:16pm | #12

   Sometimes I can come off as saying that my way is the only way, when what I mean is " here is an alternative to that method that also works well, without needing a jig."  My problem is probably caused by being the owner of the company so long than when I make suggestions to my employees, I do so in such a way that they understand clearly that "this is the way I want it done! PERIOD!"  I didn't mean it that way in this particular case, but sometimes my wording isn't always chosen correctly to reflect that.  Sorry, no offense intended.

   I am pretty good with my bandsaw, but not that good, either.  I would never consider a bandsawn edge a finished edge, just like I wouldn't consider a tablesaw edge, a jointer edge, or a planer face ready for finish either.  Everything gets prepared for finish with hand planes in my business.  EVERYTHING!  With the obvious exception, of course, of plywood carcasses. 

   Jeff

2. 
   EricAnderson | Oct 16, 2006 07:40am | #10

   Well, I heard all the arguments, and some had a good point, but I decided to built an edge guide anyway to see what good it will be for this application.  I'll report back after I have had some experience.  Here is what it looks like:

   http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/Dubbystraightedgetrimmer001.jpg

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 13, 2006 10:58pm | #2

   I have done this and it works OK. You just have to make sure you don't overhang the workpiece too much so it's not supported adequately. Also, your zero-clearance insert (if any) will be pretty much useless since the workpiece won't be in contact with the table/insert. For me, if I want to do this, I usually use a clamp-on straight edge similar to EZ Smart with a CS, or simply screw a straight edge (plywood) to each end of the workpiece and run it through the saw with the straight edge up and against the fence. I usually do this as my first cut, subsequent cuts eliminating the screw holes. Much simpler IMHO. YMMV.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

3. 
   JohnWW | Oct 13, 2006 11:13pm | #4

   For stability, the jig will need to be against the fence at both the beginning and the end of the cut, so it will need to be as long, or preferably a little longer, than the stock you are edging. 

   Also, the width of the stock you are edging will be somewhat limited by the distance between the edge of the grooved clamp mounting board and the edge of the jig.  You can overhang some, but trimming the edge off of a 12" wide board would mean that you would have an awkward 8" of overhang.

   Much simpler would be to take the 12" by 96" base and simply attach the piece you want to trim to the base with a couple of sheet rock screws run in from underneath, and placed just a fraction of the inch in from either end of the board being trimmed.  The small area damaged by the screw holes would be cut off later as part of the usual stock preparation. 

   Position the stock to be trimmed on the base with just the part you want to rip off overhanging the edge of the base and then set the rip fence to 12", so that the blade runs down the edge of the base and takes off only the part of the stock that is overhanging.  Set up this way, you don't need to do any measuring, you can just position the base on the stock by eye.  You could drill a grid work of holes in the base to speed things up.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/13/2006 4:15 pm ET by JohnWW

4. 
   pzgren | Oct 16, 2006 04:05am | #9

   Eric,

   This will be a bit different answer than you'll get from most everyone else: If you want an straight edge on your piece of wood safely and quickly, then may I suggest the use of a jointer plane. Quick, safe, easy, inexpensive, infinitely flexible.

   Tschüß!

   Mit freundlichen holzbearbeitungischen Grüßen aus dem Land der Rio Grande!!

   James