Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Dec 27, 2007 06:29pm | #1

   Jordan,

   Bullnose is easily approximated with the high angle plane you used to make the gluelines.  So is the bevel.  You could make a template, and a scraper to refine any variations from your ideal edge shape if you need to, but I'm guessing you can get close enough "by eye".

   Alternatively, if you are of a mind to, you can make a high angle molding plane to do it in one swell foop.

   Ray

2. 
   xmike | Dec 28, 2007 01:18am | #2

   I'm using a 3/4 " bullnose router bit from Infinity Tools to add a bullnose to my curly maple piece.  So far I'm not experiencing tearout on my test pieces, and this is pretty fiesty wood.  In a couple of days I should be trying it out on the real thing. 

   I struggled with how to use the router to put the bullnose on such a large piece.  The piece is a bit unwieldily to do on the router table, and there's no convenient place to guide the bit's guide bearing when using it in the hand held router. 

   Finally, it dawned on me that my router's edge guide (Bosch) has a split fence and that I should be able to successfully cut the bullnose with the router hand held by setting up the split fence and bit relationship on the handheld router in the same way that I would, were I to cut the bullnose on the router table.

   We'll soon see if practice follows theory in this case.

1. 
   danmart | Dec 28, 2007 01:28am | #3

   Mike I think the router --hand-held and very light cuts is the way to go for the basic stock removal. After you get close to the profile you want, like another knotter said- make a scraper and zero in on the final shape. Curly maple will work well with sharp router bits if you take a little at a time. Finish with hand tools to get your exact profile and you should be in there.

   dan

1. 
   dovetaildreams | Dec 28, 2007 02:30am | #4

   Thanks all,I'll probably try doing this with my hand plane as suggested for a couple of reasons. I really enjoy the look and feel of a finished piece that looks like someone made it and touched it at some time. Secondly, I'm pretty router illiterate. Learning, but still can only say my alphabet- can't identify the letters and definitely can't read outloud!!So, it seems like sharpness is the key on figured woods.
   Thanks again!
   Jordan

1. 
   joinerswork | Dec 28, 2007 07:04pm | #5

   Jordan,

   Sharp, plus a light cut, at least to finish up with.

   Ray

3. 
   aew | Dec 30, 2007 05:21pm | #6

   One tip I might add is to wet the wood before you do any cutting with either a hand plane or a router. I have found that just wetting the surface with water reduces tearout dramatically even when using a planer or joiner. I think this is because it reduces the brittleness of the cross grain.

1. 
   dovetaildreams | Dec 30, 2007 05:44pm | #7

   Um, I'm kind of scared of rust? Especially on my precious handplanes.

1. 
   aew | Dec 30, 2007 06:19pm | #8

   A wipe down with a dry towel and then with wax, WD 40 or another non-silicone agent will minimize any potential rusting. You don't have to have standing water; just enough to dampen the wood surface. I've never had a rust problem from using my tools on damp wood; only from the normal New England weather conditions which require constant preventive maintenance on all my equipment and tools.