Attention all wood veneer experts…anyone experienced with the wavy grain of curly maple and how to successfully trim the edges when veneering melamine and MDF?
I have had limited success on test pieces using new utility knife blades and sand paper. But, this is disconcerting to see the pieces of veneer pull out even with the sharpest of blades and all my attention. I have much too many surface feet of edges to be doing this like I am presently.
The veneer is cold-pressed onto the substrates mentioned with a vacuum press and Titebond’s Cold-Press glue. Its great and very comparable to the old hide glue process. I mention this because I don’t think I’m going to resist the tear-out of these small pieces with a change in the veneer application. I know I’m getting good adhesion because there was issue with the veneer’s viability–it was warped from some moisture attack and dry-out. It flattened perfectly and when I pulled the edges away from the substrate to test the joint strength, it pulled up the substrate surface rather than fail the glue joint itself.
Any suggestions?
Scrappy
Replies
Scrappy,
I use a router fitted with a flush trim bit. Run the router in a climb cut fashion, that is in the opposite direction of normal. This will cure the tear our problem. I like the four wing flush cutters. I bought one of these years ago from Milwaukee, but I'm not sure they are still available. I have also used with good results, the three wing flush trim bits sold by Bosch ( and I guess others).
Rob Millard
Thanks,
I didn't even think of a flush router bit. Matter of fact, there are spiral cutters that are specifically downward-cutting to improve difficult grains such as this circumstance. But, I hadn't seen a 4-wing cutter. The router will do perfectly. I have a 2 hp Makita that is very quiet, and very comfortable to use for such.
Scrappy
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