Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Oct 18, 2003 06:04pm | #1

   Dovetailing plywood is hazardous, as you've found.  And if you manage to cut the joint, you still are looking at the ends of plywood shining through.   A better solution with plywood is a tongue-and-groove joint.  The tongue is on the end of the board that forms the front of the drawer box, and the groove is on the side.  You cut the whole joint on the table saw, much quicker than the dovetail route.   With modern glue the joint is sturdy enough, especially if you're using ball-bearing full-extension slides.  Good slides greatly reduce the stress on the joint.

1. 
   besea | Oct 18, 2003 09:35pm | #2

   Thanks Jamie but I want the dovetail appearance in addition to the strength.

   If I understand the structure of the jointery that you describe doesn"t the leave the raw plywood edge facing to the front adjacent to each drawer front?  I'm not putting any additional face on the drawer box, the finished front of the drawer is the  board with the jointery.

   Thanks for the reply, I just stopped in from the garage to check for any replies / answers / anything !!  ( as I am still struggling with these problems as I type )

   Thanks, Bill

1. 
   TomMGTC | Oct 18, 2003 09:54pm | #3

   The problem is you are trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Dovetail joinery doesn't lend itself well to plywood, especially with the edging on it. Is the time you are spending trying to make this work really worth the minimal extra cost of using solid wood. Use solid wood for the drawer fronts and sides but uses a cheaper secondary wood for the sides. (pine or poplar for example)Tom

   Douglasville, GA

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Oct 20, 2003 03:45am | #5

   BC ---

     The simplest way to make that tongue & groove joint would, as you say, expose the front of the side to view -- if you're not using a separate drawer front.   Another way to do the same joint leaves part of the front plywood overlapping the front of the side, so it is no longer exposed.   It only costs one more cut on the tablesaw.  Among others, Tag Frid describes the joint in his book Joinery: Tools and Techniques.

1. 
   BG | Oct 20, 2003 02:46pm | #6

   BC,

   I have even tried cutting the dovetails in plywood by hand...better outcome..but still kinda crappy...and that is with an applied front, not half blinds like your attempting. 

   When making draws from ply, I usually run a rabbit on the front piece and attach the sides with glue and pin them with dowels for additional strength....I have made several of these but they are strickly for shop storage..

1. 
   Elcoholic | Oct 20, 2003 07:59pm | #7

   Dovetails and plywood don't mix.  The short grain in the pins will always be the weak point.  You're sacrificing function for form.  The tails aren't as bad, so if you insist on half blind the dovetails the drawer fronts need to be solid wood.  When I make plywood drawers I use Appleply or BB Ply.  For strength and style I use a finger (box) joint front and back with an applied drawer front.  If you use 3/8" or 1/2" fingers the sides can be pinned to the front and back with small dowels in two or three places to provide a mechanical interlock similar to a dovetail function. John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

2. 
   BG | Oct 20, 2003 10:14pm | #8

   BC,

   I think John intened this message for you...maybe not...

   BG

   Dovetails and plywood don't mix.  The short grain in the pins will always be the weak point.  You're sacrificing function for form.  The tails aren't as bad, so if you insist on half blind the dovetails the drawer fronts need to be solid wood.  When I make plywood drawers I use Appleply or BB Ply.  For strength and style I use a finger (box) joint front and back with an applied drawer front.  If you use 3/8" or 1/2" fingers the sides can be pinned to the front and back with small dowels in two or three places to provide a mechanical interlock similar to a dovetail function. 

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

2. 
   robkelly1 | Oct 19, 2003 01:33am | #4

   You could try edging the plywood with 3/4" or 1" solid wood where you're going to cut dovetails which would be fine for the drawer sides and back but might look weird in the front, depending on wood choice, style, dimensions, etc.

   
   

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   Edited 10/18/2003 6:33:55 PM ET by rob

3. 
   bilyo | Sep 27, 2019 01:23pm | #9

   As suggested above. Make your box out of the 1/2" sandply using the tongue and groove joint and then use your maple ply to make false fronts. This method will be easier, less frustrating, and just as strong. Also, the false fronts will cover the exposed plywood edge and the box corners.

   Just be aware that after you cut the groove (I think it is actually a dado) in the side pieces, the remaining "lip" will be rather delicate until it gets glued up. Make sure your joint is not a forced fit or you will snap it off.