embarrassing question for pros about 2×4 lap joint
![](https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/779f205a294d8777cbfae604b2b0b8ed?s=52&d=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.finewoodworking.com%2Fapp%2Favatars%2F200x200%2Fd.png&r=g)
how to cut this corner lap joint on 2x4s ?
Its embarrassing to even ask this to a group that probably think this is Lincoln log childs play.
I guess the “proper” thing to do is get a nice Dado blade set- but lets say that I want to get a little more creative. How does one make this top cut without standing an 8ft pressure treated 2×4 on its end?
Im trying to think outside the box- is there some jig or adjustment this rookie can make to keep from having the blade cuts run/extend/drag past the cut out area on the 2×4 ?
The wife wants some raised bed box gardens. So Im trying to think of a creative joint that would be simple, strong and easy to replicate on a 40-50 boards.
LIke this:
Replies
Ever hear of a tool called a handsaw? Two meeting cuts and you're done. A jigsaw would do the same but it has a power cord.
No special cutting necessary
Hello Dave,
You should not have to make anything but straight crosscuts. Since the boxes are made from 2 x 4s, all you should have to do is cut every other 2by shorter than the finished length of its repective side by the thickness of a two 2 x 4s (3 inches). Then stack them and screw them together. On the joining side do the same thing and interlock the pieces as you screw them together.
Perhaps I'm reading too much into this, but it could be an undertaking to make precise boxes. If you use stock that is not fully dry, it likely will warp as moisture level drops. And if using "2 by" framing lumber, the boards are not sufficiently equal in width and thickness for the box to turn out precise.
But if you have say 2x6 stock ready to use, you'll need a pair of handsaws, rip and crosscut, a pair of sturdy sawhorses, and a pair of marking gauges or shop made marking jigs. Lay the 2x6 on the sawhorses so the wide faces are horizontal and the narrow edges are vertical. Draw a center line down the middle for the first 1 1/2" at each end. From the same edge at each end, draw a perpendicular line to the bottom of the first lines.
With the rip saw, cut from each end to the bottom of the center lines. I'd suggest cutting down the middle of the center line so there may be a 1/16" of so gap at the joint. With the crosscut saw, cut from the edges to the bottom of the rip cut. At the end of each cut you'll have to hold the saws perpendicular to the board face to minimize overcutting.
Hope this helps.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled