Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 18, 2004 04:26am | #1

   Set up the fence so the wood is pushed against it by the saw blade (I've seen it done the wrong way).  Other than that, it's no big deal.  Just take very shallow cuts and be prepared to do a fair amount of sanding to get a smooth surface.

   John W.

2. 
   JBD | Jan 18, 2004 08:55am | #2

   John W's idea makes sense about blade pushing against wood.  I've done a million different coving operations and he's right - no big deal, just raise the blade in small increments for safety.   My 2¢ worth is to add a high auxillary fence (8-12") to keep the 30" tall panel from rocking.

   When you're cocky and want to remove lots of material like me, you'll install a 1/4" dado chipper for coving.  Two big honkin' teeth removes lots of wood in one pass as it cuts sideways better than standard blades.  But you didn't hear it from me. 

    

   "The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)

   http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 19, 2004 08:43pm | #3

   Dr. D,

   Why a high fence?  This operation, as I picture it, is done with the panel flat on the table.

   John W.

1. 
   JBD | Jan 20, 2004 03:33am | #5

   Good point John.  I've done end grain coves in Purple heart with the panel vertical, and I simply pictured that operation in my head because I like coves where the apex of the blade is the bottom of the cove, where the pointy, tight radii part of the parabola is on the bottom of the finished cove (when viewing the panel flat).  If done with the panel flat like you mention, the arc is either a "section" of the blade, or if the parabolic curve is part of the profile, it can only be at the top, which looks quite good, so it just depends on your preference. 

   Just a matter of how each of us viewed the operation in our heads I guess.   Your way is safer and better I presume. 

   "The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)

   http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro

3. 
   joinerswork | Jan 19, 2004 09:36pm | #4

   Hi all,

   Anyone besides me use a molding cutterhead with roundnose cutter for coves?  I think it's a stronger setup for diagonal cutting, and the molding head leaves a marginally better surface; still take light passes, and it helps to make the last pass two times at the same set, to smooth the surface better.  Slow, even feed rate.

   cheers,

   Ray

1. 
   Polly | Jan 20, 2004 12:37pm | #6

   Try woodworkers forum I am not sure whether it is .com or .com.au Could not  get into my favorites to  check.They had a detailed guideon coving

2. 
   rslatm | Jan 26, 2004 10:57pm | #7

   I recall someone has a cutter designed for this application. Made especially for coves. I'd be willing to bet the LRH Magic Moulder is good for this.

   http://www.lrhent.com/view.htm

1. 
   joinerswork | Jan 27, 2004 03:51am | #8

   Hi Rick,

   Yeah I guess it would work well; I have an old Sears molding cutterhead and it does a pretty good job, as long as the cutters are kept sharp. (Thank God for diamond sharpening "stones"!)

   Cheers,

   Ray