Replies

1. 
   lat_axe | Mar 15, 2021 02:23pm | #1

   No matter what joinery method you use to put those ends together, the join will be obvious if the grain doesn't match. It's not just the grain pattern that should (ideally) match but also the "run" of the grain, so that the light reflects off both pieces involved in the same way. And then there's the colour match ......

   So not easy to achieve. But if you can, a scarf joint will be the simplest yet strongest and most do-able joint without anything other than glue. The alternative is, as you mention, dominoes or some other reinforcement of a butt join of two square-cut ends. With a good grain and colour match, that would be the simplest of the lot.

   **********
   Another approach, which I confess to using whenever such invisible joints become impossible to achieve with the wood I have, is to place a gew-gaw or folderol between the two ends to be abutted. This becomes a decorative "feature" and stops the eye from noticing the mismatch of grain in one length to the other - assuming the mismatch is not glaring.

   ************

   This FWW article might be useful:

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/1998/04/01/making-large-moldings

   Lataxe

1. 
   gairy | Mar 15, 2021 03:00pm | #6

   Lataxe,

   Thanks for the above. :)

   I cut the test piece in half and then reversed the ends / sides precisely so that I could see how bad it would look with the grain and colour matching least.

   The French Walnut I've got has massive colour and grain differences even within a single plank (and it's all from the same tree).

   For the final pieces I've matched it as best I can but it's never going to be invisible (hence wanting to make it a feature instead of trying to hide it).

   The angles and lengths involved made me discount a scarf joint as it'd be very hard to do accurately (beyond 45°) without standing the planks on their end to cut.

   I did consider a cross-grain pieces inserted between the joints (probably then use domino's to secure everything in place) to accentuate the joint whilst keeping nice and tidy looking so I might do a test on that tomorrow.

   And since posting the original inquiry I had the idea of making an MDF template to then use a flush-trim bit to create repeatable and accurate sliding dovetails (I'd only need to hand trim the rounded internal corners) and so maybe two tests tomorrow.....

   I love projects like this as they push you to get creative and learn new skills!

2. 
   gairy | Mar 15, 2021 03:02pm | #7

   (ahh, just saw that the reply is awaiting moderation - apologies for multiple posts)

2. 
   rob_ss | Mar 15, 2021 02:31pm | #2

   To be honest, I'd tell the client no can do, and why. If they want waterfall at the edges, they are unlikely to be happy with joins in the middle.

   For other ideas:

   You could cut narrower boards and glue them back together with the ends staggered. This would be very strong and would disguise or perhaps if you are clever even enhance the appearance of the butt joints. Works for Ikea...

   Butterfly keys are fashionable at the moment, especially if made from a contrasting timber. I have seen these done in all sorts of shapes on a CNC if you have one.

   What about a central area of contrasting timber, or an inset panel of the same material.

1. 
   gairy | Mar 15, 2021 02:57pm | #5

   Rob_SS,

   Thanks for that.

   The client has the potential to throw a LOT of future custom my way and so I'm very keen to keep them happy and go above/beyond on this one.

   And they're very keen to avoid the look of the glued stave / IKEA look and so am I! ;)

   Butterfly keys could work nicely as I'd just butt everything with Domino's and then retrofit thin butterfly keys into the surface (no CNC but happy to do by hand).

   Hmmm, much to consider.....

3. 
   _mj_ | Mar 15, 2021 02:40pm | #3

   Without judgement on whether it's a good idea or not for your project...I had to get out the board stretcher recently and went with the photo below.

   
1. 
   gairy | Mar 15, 2021 02:50pm | #4

   _MJ_,

   Yeah, that would be great but I fear I'd reach retirement age and/or have a breakdown before I got that finished! ;)

   Also, the long front edge is going to be doubled up to beef up the visible thickness and then a 45° bevel will be added to the whole front and so I've no idea how that would look overall.

   Never easy!

4. 
   Rob_Sp | Mar 15, 2021 03:25pm | #8

   You might as well just get some end matched tongue and groove flooring and nail it to a plywood substrate. It's going to look awful anyway. Sorry, but high end it won't be... Even if you break up into smaller panels isolated with a perpendicular accent piece as mentioned above, the non continuity of grain will be painfully obvious*
   * I often do this with drawer bottoms for effect, but I still glue up one continuous panel, split it and assemble so the grain flows through the contrasting rail.
   A reasonable solution would be to veneer over a stable substrate. You could break it in the middle with an accent piece ( or a gew-gaw or folderol- whatever the hell that is :-) ) and then let the book matched veneers flow out to the ends and sides.
   Good luck with this one...

1. 
   gairy | Mar 15, 2021 03:33pm | #9

   You're the 'glass half empty' type I see (I'm joking).

   I goodnaturedly disagree and think that any one of a few of the (admittedly not perfect) solutions will yield a beautiful result if executed well.

   The solid wood is non-negotiable and so I'll persevere.....

1. 
   Rob_Sp | Mar 15, 2021 03:40pm | #11

   "You're the 'glass half empty' type I see"
   Damnit, that's what my wife keeps telling me... I hope she doesn't see this thread.
   I'm a bit of a traditionalist and, with some exceptions lean toward symmetry- perhaps that's where we part ways. Anyway, as I said before, best of luck with this.
   Rob

5. 
   Deleted | Mar 15, 2021 03:39pm | #10

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