Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 13, 2004 06:53pm | #1

   Take smaller amounts with each pass and if possible always rout the endgrain first. This should work, but if not, a shearing bit will cut those fibers more cleanly than a standard straight cutter.

1. 
   Lwagner | Apr 13, 2004 09:18pm | #2

   Thank you for the advice.  I was not familiar with the "Shearing Bit" so I have been looking at different web sites for this bit.  None of them really explain what the difference between a straight bit (which is what I was using) and a shearing bit is.  Can you help me understand what the difference is.  Again thank you.

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 13, 2004 09:30pm | #3

   A shearing bit has the carbide edge at a slanted angle, so it "shears" the wood instead of cutting it all at once like a straight bit. Burning usually happens when cutting too slowly or with a dull bit, but is less likely with a shearing bit.

   Of course, if you don't want to throw down more cash for tools, hand-sanding is always an option.

   Edited 4/13/2004 2:44 pm ET by JACKPLANE

1. 
   Lwagner | Apr 13, 2004 09:57pm | #4

   Thank you for the explanation, today you have helped me learn something new.  Though, becuase I like to spend as little money as possible, I will probably end up sanding.  I was hoping for an easer fix (I fit our society well:))  Again Thank you.

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 14, 2004 10:47pm | #7

   JP, aren't the shearing bits also referred to as "down-spiral" and "up-spiral" bits??  or is it a totally different bit?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 15, 2004 03:25pm | #8

   To my knowledge, they're very similar but a shearing bit has a less aggressive slant while a spiral bit is a spiral along the cutting edge.

2. 
   AlbionWood | Apr 13, 2004 10:29pm | #5

   If there is an inside corner, you will always get a momentary pause when you hit the corner, and at 20,000+ rpm this will always scorch oak.  The easiest way to avoid this is with a variable-speed router, just slow down the bit (that's what VS is for!).  With a constant speed router you can get one of those $30 VS units.

   Otherwise you will have to sand, scrape, or chisel the scorch marks away.  Sharper bits, shearing bits, etc will minimize the problem, but with oak I think you will almost always get some scorching at inside corners when routing at full speed.  I do, anyway.

   "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler."  A. Einstein

   http://www.albionworks.net

1. 
   Lwagner | Apr 14, 2004 05:35pm | #6

   Thank you for the advice.  I do not own the router I currently am using but I will keep your advice in mind when I am able to finally buy my own router.