Replies

1. 
   Malcolm | Dec 30, 2005 09:11am | #1

   Here's my wish list - a really good vacuum press!

   I mess around with crowned presses jacked-up from scraps, and it works, but I hate it! In an ideal world, a vacuum press, always set up and ready to go, would be sooo cool! Sigh!

   M

   http://www.macpherson.co.nz

   
   

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   Edited 12/30/2005 1:12 am ET by Malcolm

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 30, 2005 03:17pm | #2

   The reproduction furniture maker's list would be a toothing plane, veneer hammer and a glue pot.  Don't need any press for hammer veneering with hot hide glue. 

   Otherwise, the vacuum press is definately the way to go. 

2. 
   user-87358 | Jan 07, 2006 11:34pm | #20

   I have purchased a vacuum bag from a seattle area called "Edensaw Woods"  its a 30 mil thick bag and is really durable I am going to purchase another one pretty soon if your interseted I can send further information about it or I can email there phone number and address.

   Red

2. 
   RMillard | Dec 30, 2005 03:32pm | #3

   It depends on the volume, type and size of the work. My work involves making fairly complicated pieces one at a time, and I'm completely satisfied with hammer veneering. Hammer veneering is versatile, does not require any complicated set ups, or laborious taping, it is quick, and has a track record going back centuries. As far as the tools required, all you need are a clothes iron, glue pot ( a dedicated glue pot is a worthy investment) veneer hammer ( I made mine) a knife, veneer saw, a stainless steel straightedge and a spray bottle. I have a friend, who is abandoning his vacuum press in favor of hammer veneering, after he saw how quickly a veneered pattern can be built, by hammer veneering.

   The following link gives a description of the hammer veneering process, and while the subject piece is very small, I have used the method for pieces as large as a sideboard, where the top and curved fronts were all veneered, using the same method.

   http://americanfederalperiod.com/tea_chest%201.htm

   Rob Millard

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 30, 2005 07:08pm | #4

   Muchas gracias to all who've replied!-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   sapwood | Dec 30, 2005 10:08pm | #7

   I heartedly recommend Darryl Keil's videos on vacuum veneering in the beginning of your research. I began veneering about six years ago and use the vacuum bag technique for the most part. I haven't done any hammer veneering, but feel it's pull. There are simply too many places on a complicated project where the bag technique cannot be used. And the hot iron-on pva glue technique is wholly inadequate for flitch veneers although it is OK for paper-backed. If you like to work in a variety of styles and include cabinetry, then you'll find untold use for a vacuum set-up. Besides veneering, we use it here for fabrication of torsion boxes, lamination of multiple sheets of ply for stair treads, large panel (4x8 ft. +) assembly, bent laminations, etc. These are uses for which hammer veneering simply isn't applicable. As in most cases, a working knowledge of a variety of techniques is most useful.

1. 
   Ron01960 | Dec 31, 2005 04:50am | #8

   If your looking for a detailed story on hide glue and veneering. Its far more versatile than I ever expected. Plan on an hour.Paul's a very interesting man. Exquisite work!http://www.schurchwoodwork.com/Ron

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 31, 2005 05:01am | #10

   You must be reading my mind, Ron. I was just speaking to Paul last month! Heck of a nice guy, and really knows his stuff!

   By the way, I'm also talking to Pat Edwards: talk about expertise!!!-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 31, 2005 05:00am | #9

   Thanks, Sapwood. Good information I'll follow up on.-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   sapwood | Dec 30, 2005 09:54pm | #6

   Rob,
   That is an informative and interesting article. Thank you. I'm wondering what the old timers did to add heat to the process. Lacking an electric iron, did they use a stove heated one? Or, did their techniques preclude the need for one? This is a question more of curiosity then practicicality.

3. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 30, 2005 07:17pm | #5

   * Sharp knife for rough sizing.   A sheet-rock knife is my choice.

   * Plane for jointing veneer edges.

   * Veneer tape for joining pieces of veneer.  Get the paper kind without the holes.

   * PVA for most jobs.   Urea-formaldhyde for big jobs when you need a long open time. 

   * Electric blanket for the urea-formaldehyde if you're working in a cold shop.

   * Vacuum press.

   * Sander to remove the tape, and to surface the veneer.

4. 
   bmwz3coupe | Dec 31, 2005 06:57am | #11

   Check out the website called Joewoodworker.com for free plans to make a very nice vacumn press machine.

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 31, 2005 07:08am | #12

   Thanks, Fast Driver!-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

5. 
   mapleman | Dec 31, 2005 04:53pm | #13

   Hi Jazz,

   I've been veneering for about 5 or 6 years with a home-made vacuum press. I use almost exclusively a glue from Lee Valley (Garrett Wade sells it as well) called 202GF (the gf is for gap filling). It is the color of chocolate milk and a little thicker than regular white glue. The beauty of it is it doesn't squeeze through the veneer when the high vacuum pressure is applied. I also roughen the substrate (not the veneer) with a blade from a toothing plane by hand. This gives the veneer something to bite on. And my last suggestion will, I'm sure, garner some criticism. When joining 2 or more pieces of veneer, I glue the tape side down. That's right. Everyone says it can't be done, but I have done it like this for 6 years with no problems. Only 1 time did I see a faint outline of the tape (I use perforated veneer tape with holes) but this went away with the application of finish. No tape to sand off = more time to do woodworking. Good luck!

   Lee

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 31, 2005 06:25pm | #14

   Hi Lee,

   Thanks for the experienced perspective. Sounds like your tape-down method is definitely worth a try.

   Is the 202GF suitable only for use in a vacuum bag?

   Thanks,-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   mapleman | Jan 01, 2006 03:15am | #15

   Hi Jazz,

   That 202 gf glue is good for just about anything you would use regular titebond glue for. It's not waterproof, but squeeze-out does clean up much easier due to the extra thickness. It doesn't seem to soak in as much as titebond or white glue, so it comes off very easy with a sharp chisel. I make a lot of jewelry boxes, humidors, etc. and I don't bother worrying about glue squeeze out at the inside corners of the miters. I just let it cure and pop it right off. The only draw back is the color, as I said it is the color of chocolate milk, so you will want to test it out before gluing up light colored woods such as maple,etc. If your pieces mate together perfectly, it's not really an issue.  Let me know what you think if you decide to give it a try.

   Lee

1. 
   jazzdogg | Jan 01, 2006 03:24am | #16

   Ah, thanks for the clarification, Lee: Illuminating!-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   DonStephan | Jan 02, 2006 01:56am | #17

   Suggest you start with the two videos by Darryl Keil, http://www.vacu-press.com and the one by Paul Schurch http://www.schurchwoodwork.comLots of veneering books, but most don't address modern adhesives or vacuum pressing.What you want to produce may help decide your approach - hammer veneering or vacuum pressing.My experience is that building your own vacuum pressing system (ala "Joe Woodworker") saves initial $ but takes lots of time and his text should be read very carefully and critically. If to be used regularly, a manufactured vacuum system would be strongly recommended.Good luck.

2. 
   jazzdogg | Jan 02, 2006 02:13am | #18

   Thanks, Don!-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   Barrie2777 | Jan 02, 2006 05:17am | #19

   My veneering experience goes back about twenty years.  I have been using a home made vacuum press and have never used anything other than white glue (at first) then Titebond II and now Titebond III.  I do panel up to 3' x 7' without problem.  The glue is applied with a 10' paint roller to the base, the veneer is put on and slid into the vacuum bag.  I do this by myself.  I find that Titebond III alows more time to work and has less expansion effect on the veneer.