Replies

1. 
   ring | Nov 27, 2005 06:37pm | #1

   This stuff is notorious for movement.  Grooving the back will allow you to pull it up straight by applying pressure; it won't prevent movement.  When the humidity goes down it will shrink and crack if you restrain it forcibly.  The only real way around it is by gluing up your 18" width from a lot of narrow pieces, making up a "quartersawn" piece.  Too much trouble if you ask me.  Beech machines beautifully but is not good-looking enough to warrant all the fuss.

   DR

1. 
   jazzdogg | Nov 28, 2005 12:00am | #2

   "This stuff is notorious for movement."

   Hi Ring,

   In a handplane making class I was told that European beech is the preferred species for wood-bodied handplanes because if its toughness and remarkable dimensional stability; a virtus that makes it desirable for workbenches as well: now I don't know what to think ; - )

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   ring | Nov 28, 2005 08:48am | #4

   JD,

   I guess like everything else it has its good sides and its bad ones.  I happen to know European Beech really well because for many years it was the only hardwood available in Israel and I didn't have much choice (I've been here for 35 years).  It has a very tight uniform grain that machines in any direction without tearout or chipping, takes finish very well, takes to steam-bending like a duck to water, and in general is a great wood for many industrial applications.  It also is commonly used for anything that comes in contact with food, since it is considered safe and relatively odorless.  But changes in humidity cause severe movement and often the cupping that is associated with unbalanced moisture absorption and release.  Using planks of beech for things like stair treads, flooring, wide door jambs, etc, where it is obviously going to pick up moisture unevenly, is just trouble waiting to happen.  Maybe somebody has the technical specs regarding its expansion and contraction.  I am just speaking from personal experience.

   DR 

1. 
   CraigC | Nov 28, 2005 04:42pm | #5

   My experience with this wood is very very limited, but I would agree with everything Ring has said. I’ve gone through about 600 bd ft of 4/4,6/4 & 8/4 stock used in various ways. It’s the wide boards where the potential problems lie. Knowing some of this beforehand, I changed my approach to the casework and decided to laminate ¼” veneered ply to 3/8” pine ply to make up 7/8” sheetgoods. I’ve already gone through 25 shts of this stock.FWIW, the following is a synthesis from B. Hoadley’s Understanding Wood and W. Lincoln’s World Woods in Color: The three common beeches are American (Fagus grandifolia), European (Fagus sylvatica) and Japanese (Fagus crenata). Specific gravity runs .74, .72 & .62 in the order above. All exhibit similar characteristics: exceptionally good steambending; when dry there is large movement in service, used in cabinetmaking, high-class joinery, solid & laminated furniture, desks and workbenches, chairmaking, shoe heels, sportsware, toys, bobbins, woodware, tool handles, turnery, musical instruments, heavy construction, marine piling, etc. More E. Beech is consumed in the UK than any other hardwood.Of A. Beech Hoadley has 11.9% tangential shrinkage from green to oven-dry MC. The other hardwoods high in this category are: flowering dogwood, hickory, hormbeam, most of the oaks & sweetgum.Anways, it is a good wood to work with and clients I’m using it for are very happy with the look. On the one, I’m using an N/C lacquer with a slight brown tint and the other Miniwax poly.

2. 
   DCarr10760 | Dec 22, 2005 11:30pm | #6

   Here's a good article by Clark & Williams regarding the use of Beech for wooden planes.

   http://www.planemaker.com/articles/beech.html

   David C.

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 23, 2005 04:28am | #7

   Thanks, David!-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   hammer1 | Nov 28, 2005 04:44am | #3

   Craig, I wonder if the masonry has transferred moisture to your lumber. If it has curled out, it sounds like the back side may have soaked up some moisture. On wide boards, the growth rings may go in two directions, cupping often ensues. Plastic anchors aren't the strongest, I prefer lead shields in a clean hole with some epoxy. PT sleepers attached to the masonry might be an option, if you have the room.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match