Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 01, 2003 08:39am | #1

   Here's a cool place to look. The Electronic Neanderthal Woodworker. Lots of antique planes and info.

   http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html

2. 
   Scrit | Nov 01, 2003 02:59pm | #2

   DP

   For the full low-down on all the Stanley planes, take a look at Patrick's Blood & Gore  which has a lot about the make. Welcome to hand tools - you're now on the slippery slope..... ;-)

   Scrit

3. 
   BG | Nov 01, 2003 03:06pm | #3

   dperfe,

   If you watch the video on here for tuning a block plane...or read about tuning a plane elsewhere...you'll get a pretty good idea of what you need to start with in a used plane for a good tool to evolve from the dirt and rust.  I'm no expert but buying a used plane with missing parts, a severly warped base, chips in the mouth area, etc., etc. will only lead to a frustrating outcome. 

   I have bought from dealers and let them know up front I'm interested in using the plane on collector items...the price is good and they have already checked out the essentials.  On the other hand, I bought a real piece of junk a couple of weeks ago for $5 bucks but the handles and blade were in good shape...and I recycled those parts..
4. 
   BobSmalser | Nov 01, 2003 06:36pm | #4

   Ebay is full of great old Stanley planes at a fraction if the cost of modern, inferior Record planes...so long as you stick to the common ones not in "collector" condition.

   3's, 4's, 5's, 7's 8's, 40's can be excellent values.  Shoulder planes like the 90-series and the 10's run pretty high there so shop around....same with some of the better block planes with adjustable mouths.

   You need to check the pics to see there's a lot of blade left and more importantly, that there's no wear or chips in the mouth.

   The above websites will tell you the details and how to clean and tune.

   Personally, I only buy the ones with rosewood totes and corrogated bottoms...that gives me a date range where the quality was excellent.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/1/2003 11:50:42 PM ET by Bob

1. 
   dperfe | Nov 01, 2003 10:07pm | #5

   What's corugated? 

   Thanks,

   DP

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Nov 02, 2003 12:53am | #6

   Corrungated -- the bottom of the plane body has grooves running the length of the plane.  The theory is that it creates less friction, therefore sliding easier, particularly on resienous (sp?) woods.

   I have bought, cleaned, and restored many Stanleys from 2s to 8s.  If you are serious about using planes, have the money, and know how to sharpen and hone your blades -- go straight to Lie-Nielsen.

   If you don't know how to sharpen and hone the blades and maintain a plane, yet, then get a couple of old Stanleys and learn on them.  Better to make your mistakes on something cheap.  They do a good job when set up properly.

   Once you learn to set them up, sharpen, and enjoy making shavings so thin you can read through them, go buy Lie-Nielsen planes.  You can also consider the Lee Valley/Veritas planes.  They are also good.  And, maybe the Clifton.

   Enjoy,

   Alan -- planesaw

1. 
   BobSmalser | Nov 02, 2003 01:32am | #7

   I won't argue that L/N and L/V don't excellent products....the L/V shoulder planes appear to be a better value than used Stanley 60's in fact.   Bring serious money, tho.

   A newbee could by a whole rack of rosewood-mounted vintage Stanley "C" series for the price of one L/N....add the bennies of learning to clean, sharpen and tune that old plane, and I believe them to be a much better choice to begin with.  They can always be resold easily for what you paid for them, allowing you to trade up if that's what you desire.

   Depends on how Neanderthal you want to go...I'd say as a minimum you need a jointer, smoother and shoulder plane to start....and probably a block plane too.   I use them almost every day, even with machines handy.  If you begin with roughsawn board like I do and want to do them totally by hand, you'll like a 40, too....which doesn't get much use in my shop except on timbers too big to move to a machine.

   Not to mention that some of us have made some decent furniture, boats and other woodwork using Grandpa's well-worn birch and beech planes and setting hammers long before we decided to spring for even an old  Stanley to fix up. 

   Heres some more guidance on tuning tools...you'll see an article from me there soon an making them from scratch:

   http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/articles.pl#handtools

   Edited 11/1/2003 6:40:33 PM ET by Bob

5. 
   PlaneWood | Nov 02, 2003 03:54am | #8

   As far as Stanley/Bailey planes go, I like the type 11 and type 12 bench planes .  These were made in the 1910-1920 era and have basically all the finer improvements.   There are 'plane dating flowcharts' on the web which will help you date, or 'type' the Stanley planes.

   For starters, a good #4, #5, and #7 in the bench planes, and a few of the smaller 'block' planes should get you started.

   First trick will be to learn how to sharpen the blades!

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   TomS | Nov 04, 2003 03:49am | #10

   http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating/

   Here (I hope) is one of those dating flow charts.

   TomS

6. 
   Becks | Nov 04, 2003 01:12am | #9

   First off make sure that any plane that you buy has a flat sole ! no flat sole , no straight edges ! generally the old planes will be made from better materials and if you are lucky the original iron will still be there and that can be where the difference will lie in getting a razor edge. They also feel better , why i do not know but there is a difference.Soles can be flattened but at some expense and labour. The one thing that i will not use is plastic handles, yuk.  Good luck.