My first message to this mail group not long ago was about a Auk table top I am making which had cupped. I bought a new hand plane, a #7 and worked on it until it was almost flat, not bad really, not quite perfect, but OK. Then I had to go out of town for about a week. The table top was in my workshop. When I got back it was humid. My glasses fogged up when I left an air conditioned building or vehicle. The table top was cupped again. It is to be a side table and is only 16″ across. If I laid a straight edge across it the gap in the center was about 1/8″. This time, I made an apron out of plywood and screwed it to the bottom of the table top. That took care of any bowing, but the cupping was still there. Finally, I took it into the house and put it (still attached to the false apron) in an air conditioned room for about two weeks. The cupping is now less than 1/32″ in most places. Half that in a few places. I don’t think it will ever be perfectly flat but I don’t think it will bow the other way either. Maybe it will slowly flatten out some more? Probably asymptotic. Would you work on flattening it some more or say it is good enough? It is getting thinner the more I work on it, but another 1/32″ probably won’t hurt.
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Replies
Aloha,
You didn't say if the top is one piece, but I'm assuming it is, doesn't make much difference. Once the board has reached equilibrium moisture content, which could take a couple months, it will not cup or straighten out more provided that as the relative humidity changes each side of the piece gets equal access to the air. I am guessing that when you took your trip, the board was lying flat on your bench and one side picked up more moisture than the other. I would store it on edge in the room that it will be in after the table is completed. Keep an eye on it and when it seems to stabilize take it to your shop and work quickly. Just kidding. Sounds like a pretty unstable piece of wood so important thing is to minimize the amount of moisture it can pick up or give out until you have it completed. Wrap it in plastic or take it back into the room. When it comes to finishing, it will be very important to finish both sides the same and to use a finish that will slow down moisture penetration.
By the way you said Auk wood, did you mean Oak? Or is that how it's pronounced down there in Louisiana?
Sorry about that! The spell checker changed "Paduk" to "Auk" and I didn't catch it before sending the message.
It sounds like you have a flatsawn wood and it is doing what all wood does, moving as it gains and loses moisture.
Finishing will make the wood less sensitive to short term changes in humidity, but it won't stop the wood from moving in response to seasonal changes, and that will go on forever. Wood choice and classic furniture construction details can minimize the movement without risking cracking and joint failure.
Bruce Hoadley's book "Understanding Wood" is the classic reference for learning what causes wood movement and how to deal with it, I highly recommend it.
John W.
Thanks, John. I'll read the book. I wanted quarter sawn, but that isn't what I got. It is rif (?) sawn, but it is close to quarter sawn. You are probably on the money with your answer.
Another question. When you planed it, did you plane it on both top and bottom? If you only did one side, that can sometimes cause warping and cupping. You should remove equal amounts of wood from both the top and the bottom.
I did plane both side. I don't know that I remove equal amounts though.
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