Hi there! I’m new to both this forum and woodworking (I decided after putting up a room full of trimwork that I like tools!)
My next project is to trim another room including a fireplace mantel. I want to try my hand at routing my own custom trim for it…but I’m not sure what bits I need to create the patterns I have in my mind.
So, the question is, how can I experiment with a variety of profiles and radii economically? Most of the shapes I’d like to play with are in that MLCS 30-piece set, and they certainly are cheap ($99!) I’ve read the fairly good FWW reviews of the MLCS bits, but have also seen the mixed comments on this and other forums. I’m especially concerned about the safety issues mentioned–Flying Carbide Chunks! Yikes! Is this a problem unique to this brand or what? Should I not buy the MLCS bits at all? Are there special precautions I could take to make it safer? Are there any other inexpensive options I should consider?
I’m not concerned with the “sets have bits you won’t use” problem because I want to try out other techniques in the future. I also don’t mind shelling out for Whitesides or other top-rated bits once I know what I’ll be using–I just don’t want to invest many hundreds of dollars on my experimental phase!
What would you do if you were in my shoes?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with a newcomer!
Replies
Shelly,
Welcome ! This woodworking is a wonderful hobby but if your going to compare the cost of doing it yourself verses buying the ready made you'll probably be disappointed. On the other hand, if you compare it with other hobbies...like golf, tennis, etc. then your way ahead of the game.
There are many more qulaified than me to answer your questions, hopefully they will respond. I am assuming you have a router...how large?...do you have a router table?. Do you have the tools and knowledge to square up your stock before you begin the molding?
I believe MCLS are good bits, Whitesides are better but designed for more production than you may be thinking. Personally, I like to use 1/2" shank bits on any cutter that will take a big bite. I have several Whitesides and a ten bit set from Woodcraft with 1/4" shank...for light work. I have not had any bad experiencs with flying bit parts..but I guess it can happen with any bit. Your correct to stay away from the non-brand names.
Of course, you can always do your moldings the old fashion was with molding planes. Finding them can be a fun task and there is little chance of flying bits. Either way enjoy.
Thanks BG,
I have a Porter Cable 690 (the older version) and I plan to build a router table. I do not have a jointer or planer yet, so I was going to square up the wood with a straight bit following the method in Bill Hylton's book. Will this work?
Thanks again.
Shelly,
Many here use the router to square one edge on a piece of stock. I guess your thinking of using fairly small pieces of stock and therefore the technique may work well on adjacent sides. I do not know, however, how you get parrallel with a router...generally, a TS or planer is required.
The router table is an excellent idea...
Shelly, there is an easy way to joint your material without a jointer. Hand planes are my preference but I realize many people haven't the opportunity to learn how. If you have a decent table saw and a good combination blade. If the board does not have one stright edge, then nail or screw a good straight edge over hanging the material you are ripping . The straight edge rides the fence. Remove straight edge and rip 1/8" oversize. Rip 1/16" off each side. This will give you two straight edges good enough for a glue joint. Yeras ago I tried the router method, it works but is a PITA on long boards.If one side is straight , rip 1/16" oversize and then rip to width.
Shelly, you can edge joint with either the router or the tablesaw, using a straightedge as a reference, but face-planing [getting both faces flat] is problematic. There are planing bits for the router, and several jigs in different books to use for them, but I'd think that learning to use hand planes for that task would be more efficient and produce better results.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thanks everyone--incidentally, I just bought and tuned up a block plane following the instructions in the August FWW & its companion video tip. So that may be the way to go. I've been holding off on investing in a table saw until I'm more familiar with them through a community woodshop class this fall. For that matter, I might be able to play around with different router bit profiles there--I don't know what equipment they have. Otherwise I may just go for the MLCS set that I mentioned in my first posting, and hope that the carbide doesn't fly! (Unless there are anymore ideas out there!)
Thanks again for your input!
In the router bits that I use less frequently I use MLCS, have used a large number of them and have never had a problem with any of them. For my more frequently used bits I use use CMT.
Scott T.
Consider using a moulding head on the tablesaw. The tilt of the arbor makes one bit do the job of many. The moulding head gives a nice finish as well. The best moulding head is the Magic moulder from LRH. You can also do something similar with a tlit router base from Woodhaven.
I must have missed something, have there been problems with MLCS bits throwing off their carbide?
John W.
I've not been able to figure out where Shelley saw that information. Maybe she has the MLCS mixed up with another brand. I've done searches here at Knots (to "the beginning of time"), at Wood Mag forum, and at the WWA forum, and have seen nothing negative about MLCS bits. They seem to generally be grouped with the Amana and Whitesides with regard to quality, which isn't bad company to be in.
I plan to buy the $99 set of MLCS bits to get the profiles I need, and then when it comes time to buy a rail-and-stile set, lock miter bit, or other more complicated, precise set, go to CMT or Freud.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The tread was over in BT last week or so.
My experience wit MCLS has been chatter and excessive run out...
Chattering and run out will cause the the carbide to chip or break, other wise be thrown.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Ah! Thank you. Forgot, those guys talk tools too.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Yur welcome.
Did you ever read the chainsaw thread?
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Jamie: its in the Tools for HomeBuilding section, its kinda of scary reading that stuff,cheap Router bits just aren't worth risking injury over trying to save a few bucks.. better off sticking with the Freuds..lots of times you read about guys bitching this tool & that tool is junk but when my Buddies over in FHB say it I know its true cause us Skiled Tradesmen Don't Lie..<G>...
ToolDoc
Thanks, TD. I'll go check the thread out!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I'm glad someone else read that thread...for a moment I thought I imagined it! After re-reading the thread I'm thinking three things:
1) The bit that got the nice review from FWW was probably not from a set, and as TREES2DUST stated, the individually purchased bits are better.
2) 30 bits can be sold for $99 if the sets are full of "seconds"
AND
3) I'm just gonna play around with drawings to narrow my choices down and just start out with top quality bits...Not as much fun as experimenting with the router bits, but a lot cheaper!!!
Thanks very much for your comments!
Edited 9/3/2003 1:29:41 AM ET by Shelly
Shelly, you might want to take a look at some of the fancy "multi-profile" bits -- they can be used to make a dizzying array of profiles. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Shelly: IM not soo sure they dump the seconds in those sets, but on the other hand who knows.. I buy my bits in single packs either Freud or OldHam Viper & have no complaints oh ya have some old bits made by Stanley before they sold the power tool line to Bosch..
ToolDoc
Shelly,
If the MLCS 30-piece set is the same as the "Anniversary Set" that I purchased (and returned), you might be disappointed. I have a few MLCS bits, and had been happy with their level of quality until I received the 30-piece set. Some bits had porous brazing, unequal carbide thickness or parts of the steel body were unground, left rough from the casting. The first defect could cause flying carbide, and the other two would cause excessive vibration. The bits in the set were not of the same quality as in their normal line of individual bits. Despite the explanation that I provided with the returned set, I got stuck with the shipping charge, so I have stayed away from MLCS since. If you decide to try the set, make sure you clarify the return policy first.
Rick
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