Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Nov 20, 2008 06:04pm | #1

   No pictures? ;-)

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Nov 20, 2008 07:34pm | #2

   His description was good enough for me.  I get the picture!Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   ASK | Nov 20, 2008 10:12pm | #3

   Ralph,

   I was sitting in the office doing my early morning Knots review and it occured to me that this might be useful to some others so I posted it. If you really want I will take some pictures this weekend and post them.

   ASK

1. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 24, 2008 03:37am | #10

   I do the same with my old saw..

   But no measuring tape! My auxiliary fence is a surfaced hunk of QS white oak. It has stayed straight for many years. I clamp it down with two big old 'C' clamps!

   Yes, I do check it's flatness before I use it. It is the second one I made. The first curved a bit soon after making it.

3. 
   ASK | Nov 22, 2008 10:23pm | #4

   Ralph,

   You want pictures? I give you pictures.

   I used it for the first time this morning. Needed to cut some shelves 38" wide.

   Worked beautifully.

   ASK

   
1. 
   RalphBarker | Nov 22, 2008 10:38pm | #5

   Excellent. The pair of images are worth at least 2,000 words. ;-)

1. 
   ASK | Nov 23, 2008 12:48am | #6

   Thank you. Any time.

   ASK

1. 
   andyfew322 | Nov 23, 2008 04:03am | #7

   first off, great idea, only problem i see it that: how are you sure that the fence will be parallel to the blade each time you move it? 

    

   I'm just sayin'

2. 
   ASK | Nov 23, 2008 05:54am | #8

   That's why I put the measuringn tapes down.
   I also measured to the blad
   ASK

3. 
   [email protected] | Nov 23, 2008 06:37am | #9

   I used to do something similar before I got my wide fence.  I used to use the fence and a straight piece of wood, laid in between the fence and the auxiliary fence, to set up the auxiliary fence parallel to the fence and thus the blade. 

   I set mine up with a piece of scrap 3/4 plywood.  I measured the width between the right side of the fence, and the furthest out I could put the auxiliary fence, and clamp it down.  It turned out to be 21-5/8.

   So, I cut a spacer out of the scrap 3/4 plywood 21-5/8 inches wide.  I then set the fence at 1-inch, laid in the spacer, butted the auxiliary fence up against it, and clamped it down.  This left the auxiliary fence parallel to the main fence. 

   I then ran a piece of scrap held against the auxiliary fence and the miter gauge into the front of the blade just enough to leave a little nick, and then measured from the end to the nick, which was 26-3/4.  Taking off the waste inch, the offset using my spacer board was 25-3/4-inches, which I wrote on the spacer with a marker.  I guess I could have ripped a new spacer so the offset was at an even inch, but I'm ok with fractions in my head so I didn't bother. 

   So to rip a piece at 37 inches, I would subtract the offset, and set the fence at 11-1/4.  I would lay the spacer next to the fence, push the auxiliary fence up against it, and clamp it down.  It was then parallel to the main fence, and set up to cut 37-inches from the blade.  I'd pull off the main fence, and make the cut. 

2. 
   dkellernc | Nov 24, 2008 07:55pm | #11

   It doesn't appear from your photos that you've either a riving knife a splitter behind the blade (perhaps you took it out for the pictures, but there doesn't look to be a slot for it in the throat plate).  Not sure if that's the case, but it's really, really dangerous to use a table saw to cross-cut long pieces without at least a splitter.  All it takes is a little bit of mis-alignment, and the blade will launch the piece at high velocity.  The FWW videos on kickback illustrated this pretty well.

1. 
   ASK | Nov 25, 2008 12:02am | #12

   Thanks for your concern. I removed the splitter because doing some other things on the table. Yes Yes I know how dangerous it is.

   ASK