I’m getting ready to build a new extension table for my table saw and was wondering if any of you had any ideas.
I want this to be an extension/assembly table as my shop is not huge. I was thinking of a torsion box design. The only hitch is my saw configuration. I have a Delta contractor with the Vega fence. On the Vega, the back end of the fence hac a hook shaped piece of steel that rides around the rear sqare fence tube. I’ve thought about the many ways I could do this and have not come up with anything I’m overly impressed with.
Has anyone worked with this setup before. One thing I’m considering is not connecting it to the saw at all so the assembly table aspect is more maneuverable. The only problem with that is the basement floor is not level so its alway a pain to line the outfeed up with the saw.
Replies
The hook is not the only problem. You must take into account the motor position at maximum tilt and height. A gap or very thin table top is required for that. Another consideration is extension of the miter gage slots into the table. I have settled for a separate table with no attachment to the saw. It stands clear of the motor and miter gage at full travel. Good luck!
Cadiddlehopper
I have three nice table saws, and none of them have the table connected. There is about a foot of clearance behind each, which is about 3/8" lower than the saw top.
I have the saw sitting on elevated bases, because of my height, I like the table to be 36" high. I have the front of the saws higher in the front than in the back, so that a straight edge on the saw would hit the table about 4' back. This gives clearance for the miter slots on the sled / gauge, and keeps bowed work in contact with the saw top, that otherwise might rise up, if it was bowed up, when doing a bevel rip cut.
The biggest thing wrong with a torsion box top is not having anything solid to attach a vice to. However I guess you could fill that area with something solid for that purpose.
Keep your legs, and apron well back from the edge for easy clamping work to the top.
A few years ago I made an outfeed table/work bench out of 2x6 lumber and it has worked extremely well for me. I ripped 1/2" off the edge of each 2x6 and glued them up with the flat edge facing up for the table top. I used doubled 2x's for the legs and glued them into the top as I assembled it up so it appears they have been mortised in. The final step was a power planer used to flatten the top. The top is 1/2" below the top of my cabinet saw so it works as an out feed table and it is rock solid as a work bench with plenty of space for securing vises. My top is 30" x 72" but it can be glued up to any size you want. The whole thing was relatively cheap and if the top gets beat up, I just plane a fraction of an inch off and refinish.
The attached pics show how I approached this problem, My saw is mounted on an HTC mobile base and the entire package moves effortlessly. I have a Delta UniFence (which I realy like) so the rear rail issue is not a problem. I don't know what one of these costs.
Frosty
gcg,
Norm on the New Yankee workshop built an out feed table that had some
nice features.
http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?0708
It might provide you some ideas.
Moksha
Did I see that picture right? Does Norm have three Unisaws in his shop? I guess you need that kind of set up when filming the show. I'd love to see how many brad nailers he has. ;-).
I counted two contractors, a hybrid, and the unisaw, plus the jobsite saw he borrowed from Tom.
I've been thinking about this for a little while now. I have a Powermatic Accufence, I am getting ready to mount on my Delta Contractor's saw. I am thinking about turning the rear rail upside down, so the flat is up, and about 1/2-inch below the table top so I can latch down the rear of the fence so it can't rise, ( I have an idea for a shield for the blade that will attach to the fence).
Screw a couple of 2X4s to the sides of the saw that extend back far enough to mount your table to. This will give you a mount point behind the rear rail for your fence. And, as the motor doesn't go past the edge of the table, there shouldn't be any interference issues. The only disadvantage is it leaves a gap between the top of the saw, and the out-feed table.
Hi,
I found some good ideas on how to mount an out feed table to your table saw in the current issue of Shop Notes magazine, Vol. #16 issue No.93. Although if your going to use your out feed table as an assembly table it would be better to not have it attached to the saw. I find that all to frequently that when I use my out feed table for assembly, I need to cut something else and have to move everything off before doing so. My out feed table is made from 1" thick particle board with a 3/4" hardwood edge. Both sides are laminated with plastic laminate, all of which were scrap materials I picked up at local cabinet shops. My side support table is the same except that I found a free piece of sheet stainless steel to glue on the top. I like the plastic laminate on top of an assembly table, because when you do a glue up it's easy to clean off the glue even if it dries as glue doesn't stick well to the laminate. Any ways good luck with your decision. Hope these few tips help.
Danny
How big is the table surface going to be? I built a smallish one for my Jet contractors saw last fall. It's connected to the table, but designed in such a way that the frame doesn't interfere with the motor when the blade is tilted. (That's really important -- several people have completely screwed up their saws by slamming the motor into an extension table).
I think the design could be adapted to a bigger surface. It's posted on another web site, which seems stalled right now. As soon as they get in gear, I'll post a link.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Pretty simple to deal with. To explain with out a pic will be the hard part. Putting two L shaped shelf brackets on the back of the saw and adding a 2x of sorts on the ends of the shelf brackets. Basically you start the folding extension table far enough from the back of the saw table so it doesn't interfere with your fence. Make your torsion box from light weight pine for the core. Hope you follow Kirbys method of torsion box construction. You might also consider a section of hollow core door. You could still add space for your miter gauge to follow through. Angled braces from the table attached to the saw base would allow it to be wheeled around the shop even with the top in the up position.
I made a quick 'n' dirty outfeed table a few weeks ago that's working well.
Table is 4' wide and 6' long when fully extended. It's made of three hinged sections all 4' wide: 1.5' attached to the saw table; 2.5' middle section; and, 2' rear (farthest from the saw) section. Each section is made of 5/8" melamine over a frame of 3" deep pieces of 3/4" ply. The 1.5' section is permanently fixed to the saw table and has an angled brace.
The hinges give a lot of flexibility--can have either 1.5', 4' or 6' of outfeed support. When only 1.5' of outfeed is needed, the other two sections fold together and hang down out of the way (I have a 52" fence). To keep the sections in line when all are extended I slide a length of 1/2" black pipe through grooved runners on each side of the sections. A movable vertical leg supports the furthest section from the table saw.
6' of outfeed is a lot for a hobby woodworker like me, but it got pretty frustrating using my workbench. My saw has an enclosed base but the 1.5' setback from the edge of the cast iron table could be adjusted to accomodate your motor.
As mentioned above, my extension table is pretty small (there's a counter in line with it, and I rarely saw real big stuff). But some of the elements might be of use.
I have some reallllllly thick plywood sitting around, so I used that to make 2 rails that attach to the saw frame with bolts (old Jet contractors saw). The right rail is notched to permit the motor to tilt without interference:
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It looks pretty clean from the outside:
View Image
There are leveling bolts in the rails, with lock-nuts (added after pic taken). The left rail, due to lack of planning on my part, ended up attached to the outside of the cabinet, but with a little work could be made to fit inside:
View Image
Mine is allowed to snug up to the back rail, but it could be offset for a Vega fence:
View Image
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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