Replies

1. 
   Jimurock | Sep 10, 2008 03:07am | #1

   I don't see why not.  Half of my workbench top is birchply and it's stood up to several years of abuse with just a coat or two of blo.

   Jim

2. 
   RalphBarker | Sep 10, 2008 04:17am | #2

   Are you talking about a side wing, or an outfeed extension?

   The only issue I'd see with a side wing would be a difference in surface friction, which might affect the behavior of a cutoff that spans both surfaces, increasing the risk of a kickback.

1. 
   lostcreek | Sep 10, 2008 05:40am | #3

   RaphBarker,
   It's the part that is off to the right of the saw that makes it a 50" saw. I call it the fence extension table. The fence, a Biesemeyer, will ride across it, but I don't think it will touch. I'm not sure. I just bought it used and I've never had a fence system like this. I'm in the process of cleaning, tightening, adjusting, etc. and the table was in pretty bad shape so I'm rebuilding it.
   Thanks,
   lostcreek

1. 
   Frank Vucolo | Sep 10, 2008 09:24pm | #10

   Lost,

   If you are in the process of rebuilding this set-up, perhaps a new outfeed table might be in order too. That would solve the problem of leftover laminate.

   Frank

3. 
   ring | Sep 10, 2008 07:35am | #4

   There are 2 major demands from this tabletop - that it be as flat as possible and frictionless as possible. You can obviously do better than birch ply on both counts. MDF with laminate for instance. I'm not saying the ply won't work, but what kind of expense are we talking about here to do it right? Isn't it worthwhile to have your machines in the best possible condition?

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   lostcreek | Sep 10, 2008 07:48am | #5

   I agree. I have never had a piece of equipment like this, that's why the question. My expense will be to buy an entire sheet (4 X 8) because I need a piece 27 X 36, and the rest will be surplus, plus I already have the ply. Now that you emphasize the importance of the smoothness and flatness board, I think I'll go the laminate route. Since I'll have to drill and countersink hole to mount this,can that be done with this material?
   lostcreek

1. 
   RalphBarker | Sep 10, 2008 08:22am | #6

   I've recently become a convert to phenolic plywood for jigs and such, the better grade of which is baltic birch ply with a fused plastic layer. Thus, it will work just about anywhere plywood would. The exception is that most common woodworking glues won't adhere to the phenolic surface. Contact cement will work, however. Some extra care in cutting and routing is needed, I've found, to avoid surface tear-out.So, don't think of what's left over as surplus, but rather a series of unborn jigs. ;-)

1. 
   rmantell | Sep 13, 2008 06:04pm | #16

   I agree with your recommendation to use phenolic ply for the extension table. Frictionless, dead flat, looks good. My table saw is the center piece and work horse of the shop. I know Woodcraft carried the product. Do you know of any other sources.R. Mantell

1. 
   RalphBarker | Sep 13, 2008 06:40pm | #17

   I ended up buying 1/2" and 3/4" quarter sheets from Woodcraft (they don't ship full sheets) at a time when they had a free shipping special. I also found White Cap, which caters to the construction trade, to be a supplier. I got the impression, however, that the product stocked by White Cap might be a conventional plywood core, rather than Baltic birch. I was also unclear on whether the White Cap product used a fused phenolic surface or glued, like melamine. But, I'm not sure about that.

   Edited 9/13/2008 11:42 am ET by RalphBarker

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 14, 2008 03:52pm | #18

   Woodpeckers carries phenolic for occasional 'specials'. Maybe they have some left over.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

   Edited 9/14/2008 8:53 am ET by Jfrostjr

2. 
   Woodman41 | Sep 10, 2008 08:58am | #7

   you could double up and use an entire sheet. That extension table has a tendency to sag over time (although that fence has a frame under the table, I believe).

3. 
   ring | Sep 10, 2008 09:07am | #8

   You can cut, drill, rout anything you need. The laminate should always be cut in a manner that prevents chipping (it should be face up on the tablsaw for instance) and it has a tendency to leave very sharp edges. A simple file will do to made the edges user-friendly, although there are router/trimmer bits that do a nice job of the same.David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

4. 
   bigdruid | Sep 10, 2008 07:46pm | #9

   Many times the big box stores and lumber yards will have some damaged sheets of laminates at bargain prices. You may have to use some off color but the price is right.

5. 
   WheelinArcher | Sep 11, 2008 08:20am | #11

   I have built countless side tables for tablesaws and my choice is heavy mdf wrapped in whatever hard wood you have or on sale at the big box stores and build it like a torsion box with a good laminate top.  Like others have said, you could find a chipped piece of laminate cheap.  I just built a new table on my Unisaw last week and it is as flat as the cast iron top on the saw.  I bought a sheet of 3/4 mdf from HD with a chipped corner for $10.00 and I had a sheet of Formica that I bought last year for real cheap.  I have never posted a pic on here but i will try in the next couple of days.

1. 
   lostcreek | Sep 11, 2008 05:27pm | #12

   Wheelin',
   I have the torsion box built...with the mdf, do you simply glue it on the box? I know it doesn't take screws as well as wood.
   lostcreek

1. 
   WheelinArcher | Sep 11, 2008 06:49pm | #14

   That is all I do.  I usually build the box on the table with glue and use my brad gun to attach them and act as clamps.  If you have the box built and want to attach it to the mdf top, I would draw the grid on the top of the mdf so that you know where to nail and glue the box to the bottom of the mdf.  Then turn the box over and with your brad gun shoot some 1 1/2 brads on the grid lines that you drew and that should do it.  I also wrap my tops with hard wood and toe nail the box to the hard wood from the inside...

   I hope that helps,

    

   Larry

6. 
   WoodLess | Sep 11, 2008 06:47pm | #13

   If you go the laminate route, don't buy it at the big box. Go to a laminate supplier or a kitchen counter top shop. My experience is that many times they have cutoffs left over that you can pick up at reduced priced. If you're not picky and don't mind the color or pattern on the laminate you may be able to do even better.

   Chuck

7. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2008 03:13am | #15

   I would think it would be more than just useable. I have one router table made of 1/2 birch (multi ply) on top of a poplar wood frame.. It has never moved. (At least to change the router performance).

   If I notice something (a high spot) I just use a card scraper to plane it off level..

   I'd say MDF a better choice (IF the edges are sealed) but use what you have.. As a note, I have stainless steel straightedge that I roughly check my tables with before cutting anything that is expensive! Common work I do not bother doing it.

   Protect the bottom of the wood with shellac or whatever. The Tops I just keep a fresh coat of wax on it.. When I 'think' of doing it!