Replies

1. 
   GeneDavis | Feb 28, 2001 10:04pm | #1

   *
   Here is the assembled view

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Mar 01, 2001 02:42am | #2

   *Gene,FWIW, my thoughts are that you are making this too complicated. And that with all the different materials you are going to end up with a some pretty severe wood movement problems. Never heard of the door company you are retiring from but from the name it appears you are trying to apply a technology for man made materials to materials that nature has provided. There have been several posts here regarding entrance doors, one that started last fall that had a huge number of posts. Suggest a search of the archives.DanoP.S. Very familiar with the W.E.S.T. system and I don't think it will totally solve the wood movement issues.

1. 
   Joe_Grout | Mar 04, 2001 05:23am | #3

   *Gene:Maybe a couple of suggestions might help clear this up a bit First, if the exterior components are to be paint grade why not use soft maple. It has some of the very best qualities for a paint grade surface and has enough similarities with the Hard maple to make the two sides more compatable in density etc. Use it for the core parts too. It is fairly cheap. We generally use 7 ply 3/4 inch plywood with heavy edge bandingsand have a 95% success rate in regard to stability and straightness but either one will work about the same. Next forget epoxy. Way too hard to work with and expensive . We use Titebond 2 to laminate with and if you work it fast, (10 minutes or less) you won't have any problems. Just be sure that you use straightedge cauls with lots of clamps and you will be fine. By the way I have seen doors that warped that were 2 5/8" thick so don't think it is impossible hope this helps Joe

1. 
   GeneDavis | Mar 06, 2001 05:44am | #4

   *So, Joe, let me recap and see if I got it right. Each stile or rail will be a three-ply assembly of 3/4-inch boards: outer faces of soft maple, center core of 7-ply no-void plywood, inner faces of northern hard maple. We'll use Titebond 2; I've used many gallons of it. We will put maybe 1/4-inch of edgeband on the exposed edges of the ply core parts. We will apply every standard precaution and some extra ones to ensure wood stability. Thanks for the clarifying comments. I am fortunate to have as a wood source, a mill that brings in logs of oak, cherry, maple, walnut, etc., from within a 600 mile radius and roughs, dries, mills, and S4Ss many truckloads a week, shipping containers of furniture and millwork stock to mostly Europe. They have a section of the plant set up for us retail guys with pickup trucks to sort through a wonderful selection of species (sassafras, butternut, grey elm, . . . ) and pick out stuff from 4/4 to 16/4 thick, lengths from 4 to 18 feet. I'll now get started.

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Mar 07, 2001 03:59am | #5

   *You're making a mountain out of a molehill. Either buy a regular door, or make a regular door with traditional rails stiles and muntins. I wouldn't waste my time on what you've drawn, not unless someone was daft enough to pay me to do it. It's just asking for trouble, and I'd give you no guarantee on the final product if I made it. Blunt has a place, and I waited several days before I said it too. You're not a potential client, and I don't have to pussyfoot around trying to gently educate you in the hope that I might get some PIA business, that I neither need nor want. Sliante.

2. 
   Madison's_dad | Mar 07, 2001 04:33am | #6

   *Dido on Sliante

3. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Mar 07, 2001 06:40am | #7

   *Sgian, guess I wasn't blunt enough. Dano

4. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Mar 07, 2001 06:49am | #8

   *Correct Dano. Sliante.

5. 
   bill_taber | Mar 08, 2001 04:52am | #9

   *Does the term "reinventing the wheel" mean anything? Have to agree with Sgian, look at designs that work and build that way; solid wood , mortise tenon construction, stay away from plastic sealers.

6. 
   Ron_Teti | Mar 08, 2001 05:20pm | #10

   *Its always a good thing to thing out of the box. I do and when I get a passing "creative" thought and run it by you guys you have always been kinder to me. I think gene it might be best like the folks have said to stick with the tried and true methods of door construction. There are alternatives to m&T such as dowls. But even dowls are tried and true methods. Keep thinking out of the box and someday youll have a great idea and making lots of $$$ and travel around giving seminars to those who dont. remember T edison performed about 720,000 (cant remember the exact amount so I went conservative) experiments before he had one that worked and invented the light bulb.

7. 
   Joe_Grout | Mar 09, 2001 05:22am | #11

   *Gene One thing I didn't state the core edges ought to be about one inch wide That way you don't have to be so particular with the part width when roughing out.As for the rest of the comments I will continue constructing door this way until they pry my cold dead fingers off the table saw. We did 1000 custom doors (entries and interiors)last year and had four returned because of warpage. Go figure. Joe

8. 
   robert_coles | Jun 05, 2001 07:02am | #12

   *I have 6 dining room chairs - 1770-1790? they were already restored I think, end of 1800. I need to re-tighten them, but nails were driven through the legs into the tenons. How can I remove these nails without damaging the surrounding wood? What tools do you suggest I'd use? Too bad they do not go all the way though the leg. I could have pushed them a bit, then pulled them out. I am also a bit afraid that they might break from rust.Trying not to damage the authenticity of the pieces, would it be ok to drill a hole to remove these nails without breaking the inside tenon, reinforcing the damaged wood with a mixture of hide glue and wood dust of the same wood, let dry and cure, file the nely made pice of tenon, reinsert and glue. The bored hode could be pegged with the same wood...you can also reply at [email protected]. Thank you Thanks