Replies

1. 
   treefarmer | Oct 03, 2006 03:39am | #1

   Hi Brian,

   Take a look at the gates I built for my brother in the knots gallery under Lyptus and Cedar Gates. I used Cabots Australian Timber oil on them. The side gate was built almost 2 years ago. I was out there this summer installing the front gate and was puting a final coat on it after hanging it. I wiped down the side gate with a new coat of the Timber Oil and it looked like the day I built it.

   Cabot http://63.127.195.68/shared_frames.cfm?area=towoca&cabot=1sales

   I don't care much for any of the spar varnishes I've tried. It may be that I just haven't found a good one. I used a spar varnish on the arms and seat of a cedar adirondack and I'm having serious oxidation problems under the varnish.

   I don't know about Rhinoguard.

   Good Luck

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 03, 2006 11:49pm | #2

   Don't know anything about Rhinoguard except that the writer of their website is given to hyperbole, always a bad sign. 

   The most durable, low maintenance, exterior finish is paint--particularly paint in a light color.  Dark colors absorb heat that can damage finishes and the wood underneath. 

   Varnish is not a low maintenance finish, even the best of it--which does not include products labeled spar urethane.  Consumer grade urethane isn't very good with sunlight.  If you have to have a clear film finish, the best way to proceed is to first impregnate the wood with a low viscosity epoxy, such as that made by Smith & Co.  Then you would apply about 6 coats (not 5) of a good marine spar varnish.  There are three good marine spar varnishes--Interlux Schooner, Pettitt Captain's, and Epifanes Gloss.  There are no good marine spar varnishes sold in the big box stores, and almost none sold in paint stores except in boat crazy towns.  After the initial finish, each year it should be sanded lightly and a new coat applied.  Touch up any dings promptly.