Help!
I need to find a wood spieces which will hold up outside for a good many years. I will be building a number of gates they will be mortised and tenoned with bead details on the stiles and rails and 11/4″ dowel rod panels with arched headers and coustom ironmongery. Some of the wood will have to be fairly heavy section 8/4 or 10/4. Weight is also a factor the wood can’t be too heavy. Ease of machining would play a part also(white Oak). Another thing I have to think about is availability, I need something which is readilly available in North Carolina and wouldn’t break the bank.
Initial ideas where:
White pine
Douglas fir
Cypres
Anywone got any ideas
Thanks
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Replies
OGGIE:
Cypress!! I've seen cypress barns that are in excellent condition for many moon. Also seen fence-post that are sunk in the moist ground for years that haven't shown any signs of rot. Now, I have not personally worked with it so I'm not aware of any problems with finish and jointing with M/T. Someone else can probaly fill you in on these factors.
Also, Douglas Fir is a lighter (somewhat) wood I've seen used in ware-house timbers that have been around a while with-out major movement. It would have to be (as all woods) finished in a way that will seal it from moisture as much as possible. The D/F you get now is flat-sawn so it's not as good as the old quarter-sawn stuff I can buy or remove from old buildings that are being torn down. Never tried to get it from any local hardwood source as I don't use it for furniture-grade. It might be available, I don't know....
Good luck and have a good holiday...
sarge..jt
I just took down a fence in Boulder, CO. According to my neighbor it had been there for at least 25 years. The 4x4 douglas fir posts were about 2/3 rotten below ground, but showed almost no weathering above ground. Of course it is a lot dryer here than in NC.
Some other possibilities.
western red cedar
atlantic white cedar
heart redwood
And some heavyweights:
black locust
teak
ipe
You may also want to post this in Breaktime. (Maybe you already have.)
Black locust
Uncle Dunc:
Howdy.. I'm relatively new to forum. I have heard several people mention Breaktime. I'm also very new to computers. My wife is retired MIS, but I try to figure this thing out without asking her. Ha.. She thinks I'm dumb enough as it is and probaly right....
If you have time, tell me what Breaktime is. You can e-mail or post....if you have time....if not I'll figure it out someday (well, maybe)...he.
sarge..jt
At the top of the window, I expect that you can see a line in large type that says "The Taunton Press Inspiration for hands-on living". The next line, in smaller type should say "Home Taunton Store Customer Service Fine Woodworking Fine Homebuilding Fine Cooking Fine Gardening Threads". The next line should say "Knots Breaktime CooksTalk Over the Fence Gatherings". These are links to the five different Taunton forums. Breaktime is the forum for builders. Click on it and you should go there. If you don't, or if your window doesn't match what I've described, tell me what you do see and I'll try to help you figure it out.
UC:
Got it! Thanks a bunch as you probaly saved me having to take my wife to an expensive restaurant. Every time I have to ask her about this computer, I get poorer. I'll tell her I figured it out on my own. Of course, she'll believe me!! Yeah, Right....grin>>
sarge..jt
Sarge -
At someplace on the top of your browser window there should be a list of things like "Knots", "Breaktime", "Cookstalk", "Over the Fence", and "Gatherings". These are the forums Taunton Press makes available. If you click on one you should get access to which ever....
Be brave, m'man ... just start clickin' on stuff. (grin)
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Dennis:
Just sent you post in cedar siding. You Left Coasters are keeping me up late. ha...
The last time I just started clicking, I set off 4 claymore mines I had wired in a series with detonation cord. It made a big bang, if I remember correctly. I'm trying to be more cautious in my declining years..grin>
sarge..jt
I for one wouldn't mind a few claymores in my shop.
Frank
Frank:
Sorry, but I got out of the business in 69'. I'm sure you could probaly pick up some from a local street-gang though, they seem to have all the modern equipment and don't even have jobs!? Not sure how that works..Ha..
Good thoughts on the other thread as to manufacturers giving you steel grades, etc. Maybe most aren't concerned, but I look for what-ever detail I can when making a decision. By doing what you implied, at least you could determine if you're paying top dollar for brand name and advertising or getting more quality with the price tag. I guess this is another thread, though.
Have a good evening..
sarge..jt
Take 'em with you over to Breaktime. You'll need them.
Scott
rev:
According to Uncle Dunc, Breaktime is for builders. I better stay out of that joint as I'm not one. I seem to get in enough trouble over here. Ha.. Sounds pretty rough over there from your comments. Maybe I'll just drop in as a guess to check it out. I only thing I can remember ever running from is my wife. If I do all that clicking Dennis was talking about and blow this computer up....well I keep my running shoes on when I'm on it cause it's hers. I'm to stubborn to ask her how it works. Probaly a good thing she likes humor...and me for that matter. grin>>
sarge..jt
All the wood in this project will be paint grade and none of it will be set below ground. It sounds as if d/f would be a good option. thanks everyone for your help if you have any other ideas please let me know.
Thanks
I recently acquired some 3 X 6 white oak that had been the roadbed of a bridge for 25 plus years. The surface was weathered,of course, but 1/16 below the surface was beautiful wood. Other than an occasional spot of spalting the wood shows no sign of rot. Good testamonial for white oak.
Good luck, Art
I have worked with cedar, cypress, and Douglas fir. For ease of machining and rot resistance with good to excellent paint holding capabilities. your best bet is Cypress. Cedar works well but not as knot free. Here in Wilm. NC I can buy clear cypress for about a 25% premium over regular. Have also worked with black locust 45 years ago setting posts on Fire Island in NY for homes. They would last for ever. Your saw and hatchet about 14 seconds. Hand nailing is not a fun part of working with this wood. If you do predrill.
Harry
For outdoor woods I'm a fan of Cypress, particularly if it's going to be painted vs. stained.
Although it is technically a hardwood it is lightweight, machines well and is much cheaper than other alternatives....redwood, cedar, white oak. I can get it in 4/4 and 8/4...haven't seen 12/4 yet.....
I'm also a fan of White Oak but find it too heavy and too costly (compared to Cypress) for anything beside indoor fine furniture.
Good luck!
lp
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