Replies

1. 
   douglas2cats | Dec 06, 2004 10:08pm | #1

   Whether you're able to find deeper drawer slides or end up using wooden runners, given the 3' depth I'd have to wonder about the weight and whether the unit is going to want to tip over when the top drawers are pulled out. Especially if you've got more than one drawer pulled out. Might want to treat this as somewhat of a built-in unit and hook it to the wall with a french cleat. Being this deep, I'd also consider a recessed sub-base to provide a toe kick area.

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Dec 06, 2004 10:15pm | #2

   The simple question first...... You can probably get drawer slides from http://WWW.Rockler.com.

   Next, stability can be solved with some discretely placed screws between the dresser, and the wall.

   As for your design, who am I to say that your design is less than good? But there are some questions that come to mind. So long as you have thought about them, then go for it.

   Are you young enough that a bottom drawer near the floor is not a problem?

   Is your back in good enough shape that you can reach across a drawer which is extended almost three feet, without rupturing a disc?

   Are you planning this as a built-in, or as furniture that will move with you?

    

    

   Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

3. 
   jackplane | Dec 06, 2004 10:19pm | #3

   I doubt that at 3' deep and 6" wide this would tip over. It's traditional to make your own drawer slides from wood, no problem there.

   I see the challenge of a 6' wide drawer, so why not split it at 3' in the middle for strength.Perhaps four drawers each side.

4. 
   DougF | Dec 06, 2004 10:55pm | #4

   RJ,

   Unless you have some space limitations that necessitate the 3' x 6' configuration, I would suggest that you increase the height, reduce the depth and width of the drawers and increase the number of drawers.  The overall effect will be far more pleasing.  Even with a gabled roof, the dresser can be higher with the upper portion angled to match the roof slope.

   Regarding the drawers as proposed, you can get full extension drawer guides from any number of supplier.  They will be costly particularly when you factor the drawer depth and the weight bearing load they will be required to handle.

   Doug

1. 
   tryitagain | Dec 06, 2004 11:58pm | #5

   Thanks for the suggestions.  Some good food for thought.  Feel free to add anything else.  I'm sure I'll be back as the project progresses!

    

    

    

    

1. 
   BG | Dec 07, 2004 01:12am | #6

   RJ,

   You mentioned attic...do you have the clearance all the way up through the house to get it up there?  I measured so carefully for my 31" square kitchen island...the fron't door, hallway, everything...except the shop door...sigh...  

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 07, 2004 02:24am | #7

   The only time you may have a problem with tipping is when there's a lot of weight outside of the footprint, so keep the heavy stuff low and don't open a lot of drawers at one time. If you don't find full extension slides, you could go with shallower drawers on the top on front, and put a drawer behind each of the shallow ones, opening on the side. This would obviously work if both sides have easy access.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

5. 
   nikkiwood | Dec 07, 2004 04:16am | #8

   I don't think you are going to find drawer glides that run a full 3' -- without going to specialty glides (at great expense).

   The deepest drawer I have done is about 28" and here is the Accuride slide I used:

   http://tinyurl.com/6ol2p

   There is no reason why you can't make the cabinet the full 36" for design considerations. Maybe you can build the cabinet with a compartment behind the drawers (with access from the end of the cab) -- for ski's, valuables, or whatever.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/6/2004 8:20 pm ET by nikkiwood

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 07, 2004 07:20am | #9

   Look at Lee Valley's site. They have slides that go 28" for about $19. If you do want to go the full 36", look under heavy duty slides. Pricey, but if you have anything heavy to store, that's the way to go.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

6. 
   biosf1 | Dec 07, 2004 07:42am | #10

   Rj, if you haven't found a way to put in drawer slide or found what your looking for contact me , I have worked in the furniture for 20 years a have around in the shop what the industry used for drawers. It is a T slide, and a nylon slid fasteners to the back of the drawer to prevent it from tipping down when pulled out. I can send you a sample of the T and I'm sure I can spare a few of the nylon things that fasten to the drawer. I also worked as a door and drawer fitter for 8 years at Baker Furniture Co. Feel free to point any questions in my dierection about that subject.

   Doug Scott,  130 Lamoreaux DR,NW  Grand Rapids, MI 49321

   Or E mail me : [email protected]

1. 
   tryitagain | Dec 08, 2004 06:29am | #14

   Thanks Doug,

   I'm interested in what this T-Slide is.  Does it connect the drawer to the dresser, to hold the drawer in?  I would assume this only stops the drawer from tipping out, and not the whole dresser from tipping over.  (is this starting to sound like a tongue twister?)

   What is the benefit exactly?  Does it allow one to make deeper drawers?  Let me know if I've got it.

   Thanks again.

    

7. 
   user-5880422 | Dec 07, 2004 05:15pm | #11

   you might consider abandoning a freestanding dresser idea. Based on the limited info in your post, a built-in cabinet system that takes into account the gable may be something to think about.

8. 
   Patto | Dec 08, 2004 02:16am | #12

   Have you considered going under the bed for big stuff (say a couple of trundle drawers) and building a narrower dresser? When I look around my place about the only things that need that big a drawer are my large collection of out of date topo maps and my growing collection of furnture templates.

   If you build this free standing, you will be faced with the perpetual problem of all flat surfaces in a house - they became a repository for 'stuff' and a dusting chore for ever. (my father is still trying to convince my mother that the next kitchen will have sloping benches to encourage washing up; and they have only been married for 48 years.)

9. 
   budreaux | Dec 08, 2004 06:08am | #13

   As one mentioned you might consider long narrow drawers.  Kind of a jumbo apothecary look.  Can you use 2 drawer slides on each side?  One locking, one not? Non locking on the back.

1. 
   tryitagain | Dec 08, 2004 06:44am | #15

   Thanks treefreak,

   I think I see what you're talking about...  roughly having the drawers still go 3' deep, the width 3', and the height of each drawer 8" to 12" ??  so the face of the drawers looks very long and narrow 

   What I don't understand is using 2 drawer slides.  Do you mean in order to support the full depth of the drawer?  If that's it, then I'm just not sure how far I'll be able to slide it out.  My understanding is that a full extension drawer slide could only slide out as far as its own length  (i.e. 16" slide on a 20" drawer will leave 4" in the dresser).

   Let me know if I've got it wrong.

   Thanks again

   RJ

1. 
   budreaux | Dec 08, 2004 04:40pm | #16

   Yes on the long narrow drawers.  You're right on the slides.  Lee Valley does have heavy duty slides up to 48"

   http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?page=50505&category=3,43614,43620&abspage=1&ccurrency=2&SID=

   Another design thought is to make the cabinet kind of like an armoire with a combination of shelves and drawers concealed behind two doors..