I spotted a sideboard that I want to try to copy. Please see link. Does anyone know how the maufacturer made the sides and top so thick. I’m guessing its not solid wood and have searched the internet for ideas. What kind of joinery was used. I’ve made a small mock-up of one side using 45 degree miter cuts but that cant be right..or can it. And if so would biscits help keep it solid. Please, any help would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.accent-furniture-direct.com/Tema-9500.997XXX-TMA1071.html
Replies
If I were to make something like that, I would make torsion boxes (1/8" masonite skins on a grid made of poplar) and then veneer them. The three main boxes in the commercial version are undoubtedly assembled with some kind of knockdown fastener, but if you don't need to disassemble it, you can use biscuits, dowels, floating tenons, etc. to hold the boxes together.
If you go visit the Wood Whisperer's site, he has a video from a year or two ago that shows how to assemble a torsion box (in his case, for an assembly table): http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-18-assembly-table-torsion-box/
-Steve
The manufacturer did use the torsion box construction. (It mentions the hollow constuction in the full description.) For a natural wood finish it would be veneered, lacquered otherwise.
Well, so they do. I'm happy to see that they did it the way I would have. ;-)-Steve
Thanks for the note. I've seen other pieces of furniture in the stores with these kinds of thick sides and tops. These pieces don't show any end grain if butt joints were used. Is it possible, as you suggest that veneer strips are used to conceal the end grains. On close inspection I cant see any seams at the corners. Its as if its one strip around the entire edge of the unit which give the appearance of it being a solid piece of wood.
>What kind of joinery was used. 45 degree miter cuts ?
Here is a close up of the joint if that helps any. Like was already said by others it is a butt joint.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 5/13/2009 11:32 pm by roc
They are just rectangles built like small hollow core doors, held together with knock down fittings, no miters are used, they are all butt joints. If it were going to be painted, I would probably build it out of solid wood, using whatever hardwood that was available at a good price.
In a mass production situation, where weight counts for shipping and packaging costs, hollow construction has advantages but these factors don't count for custom work in a small shop.
John White
Shop Manager for Fine Woodworking 1998-2007
Cicco,
"The product line, manufactured using hollow construction technology finished in wood veneer or colored lacquer, is made up of several lines and modular systems designer comfortable, quality, versatile and affordable solutions to enhance any room in a house or small office while enabling each customer to express their own style."
When you continue reading the rest of the information on the piece you are interested in , they explain the construction method.
Taigert
I'd like to make it out of plywood since veneering for me is way out of my league. Or even MDF with 1/4 inch plywood glued on. Since i cant use end butts with plywood do you have any suggestions on which joinery I should consider. I thought a locking miter bit would do the trick however its not recommended for end grain but would this even matter with plywood. considering the dimensions could i simple miter the pieces together. I'm concerned about the overall strength of a miter on such a big piece like the table top. would bisects help in this case.
Anyway, obviously not sure what im doing here so any help would be greatly appreciated.
You're not going to get anything that remotely resembles the photo unless you're willing to use veneer. You build a box, out of just about anything (as I mentioned earlier, I'd make a torsion box using poplar lumber and hardboard skins), and then you veneer it. If you go with sheet veneer (see, for example, http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/), you can use yellow glue and the iron-on method to attach the veneer; it's really not very difficult.
-Steve
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