I know this may sound a little goofy, but has anyone ever experimented with using strips of 3/4 inch baltic birch ply for paint grade face frames? Thanks.
Edited 11/19/2008 5:35 pm ET by Sewerman
I know this may sound a little goofy, but has anyone ever experimented with using strips of 3/4 inch baltic birch ply for paint grade face frames? Thanks.
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Replies
Sounds awfully nice for something you're going to paint over.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
In the 60s and 70s they / we used Birch plywood for the faces and mitered the corners of the finished ends to the case , they did it for stain grade as well . It can be done but why not use Poplar at approx $2.00 or so per BF it will cost less and be better for this application than Baltic Birch , imo .
good luck dusty, whose made my share of paint grade stuff
Don't know about your neighborhood but Baltic Birch ply costs me exactly twice the price of a comparable volume of poplar. Also painting the plies presents an added difficulty. Why would I want to use the BB for this?
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
For paint-grade face frames, I use soft maple but poplar is also fine. As others have said, I would also stay away from plywood.
ChipTam
Poplar is a wonderful wood! Very stable, sort of soft but not that bad..
Poplar is like a new bride.. Soft at first but toughens up a bit with exposure.
Will , Yeah , that soft new bride stuff didn't last long , but after 30 years I'm the lucky one .
dusty
dusty,
What happened, you and Maple didn't get along? Uh, I meant, uh forget it - brain cramp.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 11/20/2008 8:55 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Bob , Hows your Acorn ?
d
dusty,
Funny you should ask. I think it would be appropriate if I make it with white oak, doncha think?
Methinks it's a good choice for outdoors material and the price is right. Got a stack of it all dried and under cover and was donated to the woodshop.
I found one in town on a house and the homeowner has graciously allowed me to take pics and measurements.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
VERY soft! you really have to watch for denting it during delivery, even after paint (oh how the grain raises after the first coat . . . !). And I keep hearing how it machines so well, but after several cabinets I find it quite fuzzy, putty-like, and prone to tear out in its own way. Call me a poplar pessimist, but I'll be looking to soft maple, I think, for the next big painted job. Let's not be fooled by how EASY it is to work, there is less integrity in the final product! Fine for low-end work, I guess . . . but I'm a hardwood enthusiast.Brian
Brian , Poplar can fuzz a tad more then others but what I have noticed some Poplar is much softer than others , the last few paint grade jobs worth have been the best I ever had .It may depend on the region , not sure but I have had it so soft as you describe I had to be careful not to dent or scratch it with my finger nails .I have used quite a bit of the Soft Maple and mainly the grain and waste factor / yield are far better with Poplar imo , wider clearer knot free boards , yup it is softer then the Maple .
dusty
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