I have some beautiful FAS 4/4 air-dried walnut I’ve been saving for a special occasion. I’m making a bar in my game room and would like to use the walnut to make the bar top. From what I’ve read, typical bar tops are 1.5 to 2 inches thick. My question is; can I face glue the walnut boards to a cheaper species, such as poplar, to achieve the desired thickness? Will the difference in species be a expansion/contraction problem? If so, would buying a cheaper grade of walnut, such as no. 2, and using it to face glue to the FAS pieces be a better solution? Or are there any other possible solutions?
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Replies
Why? 4/4 walnut is more than strong enough for a game room bar top. The issues will be how wide the bar top is. Wood will expand across the grain and will try to bow if air doesn't get to both sides so it can dry consistently. If the top or bottom dries faster than the other side, the board will bow. Gluing it to another board will just about guarantee that the top will gain and lose moisture faster than the bottom. If I were you, I would go back to the design table and see if you can get a design that works with a 4/4 top.
You can face glue walnut and poplar just fine. Make sure that both are the same moisture content first.
But, as above, why? 4/4 is thick enough, structurally. If you want the make it appear thicker, glue up as much walnut on the edge as you want -- that will give it a beefier appearance, without having to face glue the whole width.
I agree with everything said so far. 4/4 walnut is plenty strong. Even down to 3/4 after jointing and planing (assuming that's not done yet) you have more than enough strength.
If you want it thicker you have a couple options. You can mitre the edges and attach a strip to make it appear thicker. This eliminates any glue lines.
However an easier way is to rip and flip. Make the top a few inches wider and longer than final dimensions then rip off on each edge and end..you cut those to fit like a mitre frame and fold them back under the section they were cut from. The grain will create a nice book match and the glue line will be almost invisible.
I've done both and I'd recommend the rip and flip method. Doing long wide miter cuts can be challenging to nail. I've done the rip and flip in walnut before and the glue line is invisible unless you look hard for it. The color of the walnut and the grain really hid it ( assuming you've jointed properly)
I have been recently been working with both air dried and kiln dried walnut. I think it is relatively soft and wonder about using it for a top that will will get heavy use. It seems to ding up a lot IMO.
Walnut is on the softer end of surface hardness for hardwoods. Walnut and cherry are about 1,000 on the Janka scale, while red out is about 1,300, and hard maple is almost 1,500.
Walnut can make a nice home bar top, if you take good care of it. I wouldn't use it in a commercial application. It really depends on how rough it will be used.
21 inches wide, 12 ft long bar top made of resawn padauk (1/4 inch finished) laminated to 3/4 inch plywood. glued with epoxy adhesive applied with a tile adhesive toothed spreader. You could resaw your nice walnut to get a bookmatched result and very little waste, still keep the solid wood look and durability.
You could add strength by running cletes perpendicular to the walnut grain. Fit the cletes into the underside of the walnut using sliding dovetails at, say, 16°. Glue the cletes only at one end, to allow wood movement. (Do not try screwing and gluing flat support boards across the walnut grain, as the wood movement will split the walnut top.)
Cut the dovetail slots in the walnut, say, 3/8". It's not necessary to use walnut for the cletes. Plenty of details are available from various sources about using sliding dovetail cletes beneath table tops, including in Chris Schwarz' excellent Anarchist Design Book. https://www.amazon.com/dp/1733391614/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_JpuQFb9VQZHE1. Chris cuts the slots and cletes by hand but I cut them on a table saw. Easier than it looks, but try it first with some scrap. Once you've done it, you'll find yourself building tables, stools and benches. You can also use sliding dovetails in casework.
Thanks for the information keep sharing such informative post keep suggesting such post.
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