Hello,
After jointing a board then resawing it into a thinner board, I am left with a board that has suddenly cupped after the resawing. Only….this board is now about 7/16, which per the documentation of my Delta jointer, is too thin for face joint. Is it unsafe to put over the jointer and time for some hand work (unfortunately the only bench plane I have on hand is a #4)?
Thanks for any tips.
Replies
How much did it cup and what are the dimensions of the board and what is the desired finish thickness? If it's not too bad, try moistening the concave side and after letting it sit awhile, then either place a towel over it and heat that side (a steam iron can work for this) or clamp it flat and let it dry more. The moisture content was too high to resaw at that time and it dried too fast.
It is not cupped too much, very slight, but I still want it flat. It needs to be 3/8" and is about 30"x5"The wood was not recent and was kiln dried to 8% and surface, plus it has been resting here in the workshop in S/E Arizona for a few months after I bought it, so I have no worry about it not being dry enough.
It may have been 8% when it was checked but the center is still going to be higher. Also, checking the end grain will tell you if a board will behave or not. Wetting it and then clamping may work for this. A #4 should be OK if you end up hand planing it but you only have 1/16" to remove.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Well, I did run it over the jointer on the cupped and bowed side several times with a very fine setting and it did the trick, then into the planer. Unfortunately, my table saw mostly ruined the edge of the board, see:http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=fw-knots&msg=30773.30
Is it an old blade or is there a lot of resin on the side of the blade? If you need to joint the edge, make a shooting board so it will plane square to the faces. Check the plane to make sure the cheeks are square to the sole.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Nah, the blade is almost new. It's a Freud combination blade. I love using the big jointer, but the table saw is the one thing that is very disappointing in how limited I am in my ability to set it up properly. Even adjusting the stops for angle tilt proved to be practically impossible, and ridiculous compared to how easy it is on the jointer. I guess an expensive table saw is what I'll have to save my money for, something with a better fence (and a fence support bar that is actually straight!), a better splitter and guard, a brake, and a way to practically align the darn blade, and a standard size blade slot. Beginner's mistakes. I do enjoy using the hand tools though, but I don't see myself ripping boards with a hand saw....
I don't know how/if you checked the blade for wobble but don't expect the arbor bushing to be totally flat. There has been some discussion about TS setup in other threads but I don't know if I remember seeing yout name there.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
If you read the other thread you will see that originally my question was about wobble, as I thought that was the problem. I was told to ignore it and it was probably a figment of my imagination :) The blade is flat, however, my belief is that it does wobble a tad and I can see the effect of it in the sawkerf of the zero clearance insert I made. In some areas, it creates some indentations where the teeth were that are wider than the whole slit. When slowing down, you can here a certain noise that indicates the possibility of a wobble, the fact that the teeth sometimes rub on the sides of the kerf: chack chack chak chack...chack chack chack....chack chack................chak :)I aso asked if it was possible that it came from my beginner's technique. For example, should I feed the wood faster to prevent burning, but I don't remember anyone answering that.I did notice today while cutting small grooves on the router (I hate the router, pretty scary) that the grooves were much cleaner (still not totally clean) when I fed the piece of wood faster (actually this will soon generate another thread!).
When did you start the other thread? I haven't been able to find it so far but it's not hard to determine that you have wobble and I wouldn't recommend ignoring it. I don't know who told you to but that's just wrong. If I responded to your thread, I probably made a comment about the arbor washer there, too. I have seen a few that weren't very flat and since the blade is right next to it, it'a not hard to see how it could cause probalem. A bent arbor or bad arbor bearing would cause this, too. What kind of saw it is?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I think this is the beginning of his other thread.
30773.1
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
First let me appoligise for only speed-reading this thread, But I am always preaching that feeding too slow is a bad thing that most beginners seem to do instintivly althought it is wrong. You should feed fast enough that you hear some slowing of the motor, and the chips that the blade make need to be large enough to take the heat generated by the cut away with it. When you feed too slowly, there it tremendous heat generated that has no way to be removed, which is bad for the wood, and the blade. When a saw is under powered, you don't have many choices except to replace the blade with a smaller diameter, and number of teeth, which will in effect give the saw more torque the closer to the arbor the teeth are.
Next time I'll try to feed it as fst as it can take and I'll see if it eliminates the burning.Yeah, that's the other thread from last month. I will check the washer when I get a chance. The TS is a Delta TS350.
I am not suggesting that you feed fast enough to stall your saw, but one HP for a 10" saw is not enough power IMH0. I bought a 9" contractors saw about thirty years ago. I was building cabinets and trimming houses, when I needed to move it around daily. I used it for about six months before I replaced the motor with a 2 hp open frame motor. After 30 years, I have not had a single problem with it, otherwise, the fan end of the larger enclosed motors get in the way when you tilt over to 45º. Even with twice the power that you have, if I have a lot to rip, I will use a 7" blade if it will cut through the thickness that I am ripping. Then for cabinet work, I like to use a fine tooth eight inch blade. I of course do have other 9" blades for whenever I need the full height, but just because you have a 10" saw doesn't mean that you have to stick with that blade for everything, especially ripping. Another good reason to use a smaller blade for ripping solid lumber is because they are cheap. Use them till they get dull, then throw them away. Makita makes a thin 7" blade that I like for ripping. I think it may have a finer grind than some of the other brands, for under $10.Just so you know, I have two other table-saws. A unisaw, and a PM 72, but I would never give up this little saw. It is a fine little saw, and nice to have one that I can rock over onto the top of my belt, and walk out the door with, then roll into the back of a truck. Good luck, and give a smaller blade a try, K
That all sounds fine, but I do not have any problem with the power of the saw (as of now). I was ripping a 3/8" thick piece of wood and I have cut much thicker pieces without the saw bogging down. I have a problem with burning. I just haven't tried to feed the wood faster. That would be sad if a table saw of that range did not have enough power to rip a 3/8" piece of wood.Some day I'll try other blades, even smaller ones, but not until I figure out why it's burning the wood. I don't have extra money to throw at this unfortunately.
Le,
I'll just add that often the reduced amt of set of the teeth of a combination blade, combined with the tooth pattern (three or four small gullets then one larger one), makes them more likely to burn than a rip blade. These same things will make a combination blade, esp if a little dull, have a tendency to lift the stock off the table if an attempt is made to rip too fast for the blade to do its work. For each tooth pattern there is an optimal feed rate, exceeding that, or going too slow, will yield less than optimal results. And a combination blade is a compromise to begin with.
Regards,
Ray Pine
Well, at this point I much prefer to leanr that the problem might be with my technique than with my equipment. I'll try to do it differently for the next piece and will see how it goes. The thing that I found weird is tat the burning is always on the same side of the blade, never on the other side, but we'll see if feeding it faster can eliminate it altogether.Thanks.
I've learned by observing the results that slow feed doesn't work well, and read it too. But I still can't safely feed it fast enough to slow my 5 HP Unisaw, not with 4/4 stock anyway. :)
Your point is well taken though, if you're burning stock you're a couple notches too slow. For me it's been like learning a dance... ripping a piece longer than about three or four feet long means shifting grips during the cut, and it's hard to keep it moving. But it's a skill you have to develop, there and on the jointer too.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
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