Folks, I am almost finished with my latest project, but the no-inset cabinets are giving me some issue. The doors are 9″ wide by 16″ tall by 7/16 (but the top and bottom breadboard ends are 9/16 to give a 1/8″ shadow top and bottom).
I first tried to use the concealed Soss hinges, but gave up due to the thickness of door and skill of woodworker – thin, and low, respectively.
I then tried to use the Euro hinge, but cannot mount it since the cabinets are flush to a 7/4″ leg. The leg holds a raised floating panel on the sides, and I do not wish to mount some sort of a plate or block to either the leg itself or the panel, since the panel floats and is recessed about 3/4″ inside the leg.
Finally, I bit the bullet and used a no-mortise no-finial hinge (Rockler #28670 – Statuary Bronze Hinge 11/16/” x 7/8” x 2” ) that sort of works.
Some questions:
1. I bought the smallest hinges, and will they hold up with the weight of the door? I am using Bolivian Rosewood
2. Is there any way at all to adjust these? The screws are tiny, and I would love a means to adjust, since I am not the skilled player like a lot of you.
3. My first attempt made them work, but the doors stick out (unclosed) about 1/2″. If I were to use a magnetic catch, would that eventually cause too much stress on the hinges and break them?
4. If you were to recommend a catch, which one? I want these doors to close flush, but I do not want the hinges to give in a few years (months).
Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. I am sure I can upload some images if you need more info. I realize I am not that eloquent.
Thanks for your help here.
Replies
1. I bought the smallest hinges, and will they hold up with the weight of the door? I am using Bolivian Rosewood
When the traditional "mortise type" hinges are properly let-in, the gain cut for the hinge gives considerable support. Pre-drilling for the screws is a necessity.
If you are unsure of the load on the hinge pair, add an additional (3rd) hinge.
2. Is there any way at all to adjust these? The screws are tiny, and I would love a means to adjust, since I am not the skilled player like a lot of you.
Unless the hinge mounting holes are slots, you will need to locate them accurately. Mounting them to the door first, and transferring the hinge hole positions from the shimmed-up door to the casework is the usual method. If, as you say, "bought the smallest hinges", the smallest VIX bit may be too large for the accompanying screws.
3. My first attempt made them work, but the doors stick out (unclosed) about 1/2". If I were to use a magnetic catch, would that eventually cause too much stress on the hinges and break them?
Door catches are used to keep a door closed, not to close it. You need to relieve the binding situation first.
4. If you were to recommend a catch, which one? I want these doors to close flush, but I do not want the hinges to give in a few years (months).
There are spring assist hinges that eliminate additional hardware.
Practice...'till you can do it right the first time.
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