I have glued up 6 cope & stick doors. They are 16″ wide and 60″ tall and 1″ thick. The stiles and rails are about 2 3/4″ wide. I used the Freud repositionable bead cutter to join them and now have a bunch of loose inside beads which when micropinned in place will match the bead which will appear on the outside of the door around the glass.
My first step is to glue a bunch of these beads longitudinally back to back so that they’ have a two sided muntin pattern either side of which can be coped into outside door beads. I will cut and glue these into the glass bead edges while the door glass bead frame is resting over a temporary 3/4 sheet of melamine coated fiberboard–in stead of the glass.
So, I’ll be working with 5/16″ thick (and about 7/8″ wide) made-up false muntins which I can angle cut as needed and apply to the glass with a pattern that will have three X-shaped muntin patterns with or without 2 horizontals between them. Illustration of 1/3 of the face panel follows:
cxxxxxxxxc
c xc
xc x x
x x x x
x cc x
x x x x
x x x x
x c x c
cxxxxxxxxc
The female parts of the intersections marked c can either be coped or inset with mitered dozuki saw cuts. I’d prefer to cope them. I will do the male mitering on a disc sander.
Does anyone have experience or router or shaper ideas that would help accompish this with coping instead of mitered joinery?
I think using a router to cope the ends would shred the muntin ends. I suppose I could make up a jig or jigs to lock the ends inside a “reverse double pattern” coping sled that would lock the muntin in place for routing with double “backer boards”, but other ideas would be welcome. Also, I think I should use cyanoacrilate, epoxy or perhaps some kind of hot melt glue.
My final step wil be to take the doors off the melamine board, coat the inside of the false muntins with either foam tape or enough acrylic caulk to get sqeeze out,then press the glass into place and razor cut the excess tape or caulk.
Any help or experience with any of this would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Replies
Dick,
I think I understand. The easiest thing that comes to mind is to make the muntins full thickness and finished width with the ends mitered to the correct angles. Then cope the ends with the cope bit and an angled coping sled. Next rout the profiles and lastly rip the top off the thickness.
Freud America, Inc.
After you have glued together the built up muntins and mullions, cut the pieces oversize (longer) Cope to size only the mullions (Vertical members)
To join the verts to the horzs, mortise their ends for square pegs (Tenons) also mortises at the junctions to receive the short pegs
Dry fit on a flat surface then glue and pin. Steinmetz
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