I’m not through with the design of this Moser/Stickley dining table, which needs some doodling of the proportions and member sizes. But I am getting close.
The top is an edgeglued slab of 6″ width white oak boards, finished size 1.75 x 48 x 110.
How would you fasten the top to the frame beneath? I know about slotted holes and wood movement, but how many screws? This is going to be a heavy unit.
Replies
I've used "figure eight" fastners on my tabletops, not sure how well they work with a slab type top though. I get mine a my local Rockler woodworking store
Gene,
The place to make the attachment is at the top rail of either end. I would use 3 L-shaped blocks screwed under the top and riding in a groove on the inner side of that rail. If you want to be really subtle about it, you can alter the construction of that top rail to make each one as a doubled piece, hiding an attachment dovetail cleat to the top.
DR
I second "ring's" suggestion.. but instead of double stretchers I would put a bullet nosed pin centered on each leg top as I use to build work-benches. A slightly larger (allowance for expansion) receiver hole in the bottom of the top for each pin.
The L shaped brackets attached to bottom riding in expansion slots in the stretchers will hold it down, the bullet head dowels will not allow it to shift horizontally and you keep the original design as intended.
I am currently building a 44" x 44" x 1 1/4" white oak kitchen table. That's a lot of gravity in that top........ yours is longer and thicker and the weight is even more substantial. I don't think you will have a problem.
Regards...
SARGE..
I made a similar, though smaller, table. Mine was closer to 1.75" x 54" x 84", and cherry, but quite a similar design. I plan to attach the top to the stretchers by a method similar to the trick for hanging heavy shelves on a wall: cut a 1" x 1" (maybe larger) board at a diagonal, then screw one half to the stretcher and one half to the table. The top can then skid a little side to side to allow for movement but can't be lifted off without unscrewing the cleat. I am leaning towards this because the amount of movement could be significantly more than other fastening methods are designed to allow with a slab top as large as I've got. (My boards run lengthwise, so movement is mostly in the 54" direction, not the 84".) But let me admit: this table has been sitting in my dining room for six months with the top just sitting on the frame and has not budged despite a large Thanksgiving crowd and lots of kids playing around it. I may never attach it since the weight alone has kept it stable!
Ditto Ring, That's the method I use. A good way to use up scrap maple and the price is right. Not cheap just frugal, saves the cost of the 8 ring and one screw also. And you can make them as dainty or substantial as needed.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
the table top clips I got from woodcraft were thicker and better than the rockler ones. I slot the bases with a biscuit jointer and then bore a large hole in stock that will be ripped in half and become fake glue blocks the half hole will cover the table top clip so it can't be seen.
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