Replies

1. 
   Perle | Oct 12, 2003 08:16pm | #1

   What is your underlayment?

   What are the dimensions, Square Footage ?

   Do you have access to a flooring nailer ?

1. 
   alias | Oct 12, 2003 08:27pm | #2

   underlayment denotes solid 1x stock or plywood . the t&g should go over your framing on the floor, and cieling because of a whole set of circumstanses created by trapping moisture. it has to dry out and breathe sum what evenly and solid substrate deters that....cheers bear"expectations are premeditated resentments"

2. 
   Chipper | Oct 12, 2003 08:37pm | #3

   there is no underlayment, just 2 x 8 flooring joists,  total square footage is 90sq. feet.  No, I do not have access to a flooring nailer.

1. 
   Perle | Oct 12, 2003 09:15pm | #4

   My suggestion to the flooring nailer was to avoid screw heads showing.

   Nails shot thru the top of the boards may split the pine.

   I would use 2" screws.  Stainless if you are REALLY worried about the exterior application. 

   As an added measure, the use of a counter sink to help eliminate the pine from splitting would be a good idea, albeit, extra drilling. This also would help prevent screwheads from shearing.    Using a drill with a clutch would be helpfull.

   The t&g pine is being layed perpendicular to the joists, obviously, so underlayment wouldnt really be needed.

   A few blocks to run with the joists may be needed to accomodate the stock not fully reaching the width of the porch.

   Hold the ends of the pine about .5 inch from the framing to allow for humidity and seasonal changes. This will help prevent buckling and warping.

   Joe in Milwaukie, Oregon

2. 
   alias | Oct 13, 2003 01:12am | #5

   spiral or ring shank 6-8 galvanized will not show heads or try cut nails. but galvanized or stainless steel would be the way to go...my 2 ¢.......bear"expectations are premeditated resentments"

3. 
   DavidxDoud | Oct 16, 2003 03:54am | #10

   I do not have access to a flooring nailer.

   ya sure?  these are standard issue at any rental center - - they make installation relatively easy,  as the mechanism drives the boards together as it accurately places a flat nail thru the tongue - don't use them at the end of the board,  however - - leave it float and count on the groove to keep the butted ends under control...

1. 
   Biscardi | Oct 17, 2003 04:14am | #11

   If you are going to rent one, get a pneumatic one.   A buddy recently tried to do a walnut floor with the manual floor nailer and it was a bear. 

   My builder did a T&G portch for me using 4/4  black locust over 2x10s. He used flooring nails and a pneumatic floor nailer. We sanded it and oiled it. Not a joist hanger in site- all ledger boards. He even put copper flashing over the brick piers. It is utterly bombproof. Darn good builder- darn nice guy. I could have never done such a nice job.

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Oct 17, 2003 04:29am | #12

   I've never used a pneumatic - - the manual works well for me, here's a link to some picts of Jarie and I laying a walnut floor 28293.25 - further on you can find picts of the cherry and the oak floors - two blows per nail  (one blow if you are showing off),  knocks the boards together - does the pneumatic unit tighten the boards?

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 14, 2003 11:27pm | #6

   Although this is a porch floor, its still a T&G installation.And it should be fastened like a good T&G floor is done.

   Use 8d finish nails. Put them through the protruding tongue of each board. (The first board to go down, goes with the groove against the outside/wall -- and the tongue toward the next board.) Put one into each floor joist.

   Since this is an exterior application, you should probably use galvanized.

   This hides most of the  nails from view when the job is done. Just like hardwood floors. (There may be a need to face-nail the last board, depending on whether or not there is a wall.)

   Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.
1. 
   alias | Oct 15, 2003 03:26am | #7

   with respect to finish nails and flooring i've seen with the expansion and contraction of the flooring the floor will possibly seasonally over time buckle ,twist .which... will add that wonderful "character" people so much crave the head of the nail will minimize those tendency mentioned above. although tedious of me to mention this finish nails should be limited to face nail and nail with heads have more driving or pulling the boards tighter....... respectfully..... bear"expectations are premeditated resentments"

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 15, 2003 02:50pm | #8

   Agreed -- use flooring nails instead of finishing nails. "Cut" nails if you can find them.

   But don't put them through the face, hide them in the tongue.

   Vast projects should not be founded on half vast ideas.

3. 
   mike4244 | Oct 16, 2003 12:56am | #9

   If you are hand nailing, use 8d galvanized common nails.Nail at a 15 degree angle thru the tongue. Where the tongue is knotty and if you are near the end of the board, predrill thru tongue.There may be areas that you cannot toenail (close to a wall) then facenail with 8d galv finish nails.This was the accepted method until air tools became frequent.

   mike