Replies

1. 
   MBL | Jul 24, 2004 07:48pm | #1

   Friend,

   Have not seen the article mentioned.

   However, it sounds as if the head of the bolt slides in the mitre slot and the mitre slot is a "T-type" slot profile which keeps the bolt from lifting out when the knob is turned, actually tightening it, at the needed angle and proper location.

   If it's not a T-slot but plain rectangular slot, it may still be possible to use it but with reduced efficiency, where perhaps the knob only fixes the position or angle of the featherboard, and relies on the spring-fingers themselves to excert side-ways preasure against the slot walls, by the guide or bolt that rides on the slot.

   Just thoughts.

   -mbl-

1. 
   GrGramps | Jul 24, 2004 10:24pm | #2

   I just finished making that featherboard yesterday.  Look carefully at the plan and you will see that the 1/4  20 flat head machine screw goes through a washer (that has been countersunk to fit the screw head).  When you tighten the knob it will pull the washer against the bottom of the miter slot, thus binding the handle to the table top.

   The plan may be easier to follow than my explanation.

   (While Fine Woodworking is probably the greatest, some of us do read other mags too.)

   Roy

   Edited 7/24/2004 3:31 pm ET by Gr Gramps

   Edited 7/24/2004 3:32 pm ET by Gr Gramps

2. 
   snorky | Jul 25, 2004 03:55am | #4

   Thanks to all for your helpful responses.  After carefully looking at the drawing in the magazine, I can see they are assuming a 'T' slot in the table saw.  My old saw just has a plain miter slot.  My thick skull wasn't thinking about a T slot.  Problem solved.

1. 
   krumy | Jul 25, 2004 04:57pm | #5

   Haven't seen the article you're talking about. I've had this on my website for quite a while and it sounds similar. You don't need a tslot for these to work.

   http://mywebpages.comcast.net/krumy/featherboards/featherboards.html

   Steve

   Edited 7/25/2004 9:58 am ET by krumy

2. 
   nikkiwood | Jul 25, 2004 12:06am | #3

   I haven't seen the article in WOOD, but if my guess is correct, it is an old and slick system for fixing feather boards in mitre slots.

   As someone else suggested, you can use a flat head machine bolt, which as the name implies, has a flat head and a conical shape (like a drywall screw); a 1/4 - 20 is a good size to use. You need a knob with a through hole, and they are available in different styles from Rockler, Woodcraft, and many other sources.

   Now make a slat that will slide easily through your mitre gauge slot, drill a hole in the middle for the bolt, and use a countersink -- so the flat head of the bolt is even with the bottom of the slat. Next you cut a saw kerf about 6-8" right down the center of the slat -- about 4" on either side of the hole for the bolt. A scroll saw works well, but a coping saw will also do the job.

   For a feather board that is 5-6" wide, I always do two bolt holes (for stability and rigidity), so the saw kerf will end up being about 12-14" long -- which means your slat should be maybe 20-22" overall. Once the knob is tightened the head of the machine bolt spreads the kerf enough to lock the slat securely in place in the mitre slot.

   You could epoxy a little piece of a finishing nail in the slot on the bolt, to keep it from turning when tightened down. But I find it just as easy to get a bolt that protrudes above your knob by an inch or so, and file/grind a flat on the end of the bolt, so you can grab it when you start to tighten down the knob. I file a burr or two on the edge of the bolt head to inhibit moving around.

   These things really do work well, and over the years I have made them up in different configurations for various machines.