I’ve got a few felt wheels that I would like to use on my grinder, however they don’t have a hole drilled through the center of them. Do any of you guys have some ideas on how to drill a clean, accurate hole without using specialized tools that I’m not likely to have. Thanks
Andrew
Replies
Is a bradpoint too specialized? The hard part is going to be to center the hole. If all else fails Lee Valley sells different density felt wheels for a reasonable price. I got a hard felt wheel for the guys in the shop and they really love it. Make sure you run the wheel in the appropriate direction. Opposite direction of a grinding wheel or you will dig in an ruin it in about 2 seconds and possibly get hurt. It can get confusing to hold your tool upside down after you hold it point up for grinding on the other side. It may sound confusing but you will figure it out pretty fast. We use a seperate grinder...too many guys in the shop so that way they can go from one operation to the next without having to reorient the tool. BTW you can dress felt with coarse sandpaper if your hole is off center and need truing up.
I don't know that I have ever seen felt wheels with no hole in the center. Do you know what they were originally intended for?
I don't think I would mess around trying to make these things work on a grinder. New felt wheels are readily obtainable and cheap, and always come with a bushing for the hole and flanges to hold the bushing in place.
I assume you know that some kind of buffing compound must be loaded on the wheel before it is used for polishing.
Andrew, If the material is not too thick, use an 'Arch punch' (1/2") and a heavy hammer to punch out the hole.
Lay the disc on a block of hardwood, (Directly above the workbench's leg) with the block's wood grain upward .
Mark the center first on both sides with a felt tip marker pen.
Next, strike the hole punch with a heavy hammer. (May take a few blows)
If need be, punch out from the other side too.
A little wax or soap on the punch will speed things up. As a previous poster said, the hole doesn,t have to be dead on.
You can 'Sandwich' a few on the same shaft but use large washers to prevent the felt from splaying
I.ve made lots of wheels this way, by punching and cutting 'Donuts' from old felt hats.
Use Jeweler's rouge/ emery/ tripoly/and/or on the wheel.
Just apply the stick to the running wheel.
Emery,(Black) is for fast removal of steel,iron knives tools
Tripoly, (Brown) for brass/copper
Rouge,(Red) for Gold/silver and final polishing of brass/copper/aluminum
White for plastic/stainless/ zinc Forgot the name of the white (Lime? Whiting?)
Use dedicated wheels for each metal .
To clean the wheel from compacted buffing compound, just hold the sharp side edge of an old file against the running wheel.
Sears has the red brown black and white compounds in a 4 piece package.
Also Mc master-Carr or Graingers
If you don't mind spending 35 bux, Scotchbrite 6" wheels x 1"wide medium grit are the best thing since sliced bread for all around buffing and polishing of tools and hardware.
I recommend them highly Stein '
Edited 7/25/2004 5:16 am ET by steinmetz
Hammer in hole punch similar to the kind used in leather crafts...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Thanks guys, I've already got a 6" felt wheel on my grinder and I love it. I actually got these wheels from lee valley for a few bucks a peice in the specials bin. For that price I figured I'd keep a few around to use with different compounds. I'll have to find a punch and see how it goes.
thanks
Andrew
Andrew, make a punch from a pipe nipple with 1/2" id , then grind the end to a circular outside bevel Steinmetz
Also , make the sled from material that doesn,t change shape with the humidity fiber glass bakelite et al. ED.
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