I have an old 8″ Makita portable table saw that works well except for the piece of junk original fence, (Mak still doesn’t get it right) any suggestionsof an upgrade that will work. I also use a router in this table.
thanks
I have an old 8″ Makita portable table saw that works well except for the piece of junk original fence, (Mak still doesn’t get it right) any suggestionsof an upgrade that will work. I also use a router in this table.
thanks
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Replies
Paul,
I know the saw well, it was one of the first portables, and I used it as a job site saw on a lot of big projects, still have it in my barn. The fence was terrible, easily the worst design I have ever seen, from a company that otherwise has well designed tools.
My advice, go out and buy a new 10" portable table saw, even the worst of them is better than the 8" Makita. The Ryobi for around $200 got good reviews and the the Ridgid and a few other saws in the $400 range are excellent tools. It certainly isn't worth putting any amount of money into the Makita, but it won't ever die, so you'll just have to retire it.
John W.
John thanks for responding, but one of the main reasons for keeping the saw is the router table feature, (also the reason for a better fence). Also we are seeing a fair amount of ryobis and they are considered throways. the mak is light and powerful.
thanks
Sigh, this is the table saw I have. (It was free, so I can't complain.) I did figure out on my own that it's a junk saw. Well, not junk. It is probably a great carpenter's saw. (One that is good for a job site.) But it is NOT a tool for cabinet making.The fence is horrid. No matter how careful you are it will never lock vertically to the table top. There is nothing good about this saw other than the fact that it will run forever.geoff
Would it be a possibility to weld or have someone weld angle iron to the saw that would then allow you to use some decent aftermarket fence?
Not worth it. The mitre gage is no good. The groove for it is not standard. You could probably fix it, but it would be much easier to buy a good saw.
geoff
It's definitely a job-site saw, rides in the back of my free exploder! light, yet powerful enough for our work.(mostly ripping 1X 12 AZEK) does not have a stand, when not using the router it hangs from 2 X 4's with a plywood outfeed table. being able to move it is very important. As a previous suggestion checked out Rigid and its way too heavy.
I'm a carpenter, & also owned that saw a number of years ago. I replaced the fence with a Rousseau. You can check it out at Amazon... http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000224RS/qid=1128273819/sr=8-7/ref=pd_bbs_unbuck_7/102-8489676-1574511?v=glance&s=hi&n=599858
They also make several stands for the saw, with more capacity, & a number of accessories. The fence really turns that saw into a serviceable machine. In fact, we have the newer version of that saw with a Rousseau fence on it, & it's a great jobsite saw. If you don't need the full 24" ripping capacity, just cut the tubes (rails) down to whatever length you want.
I built a house 3 years ago. The carpenters had a makita at the beggining of the job- standard fence but no splitter/pawls guards. Half way through the job they were clamping wood to the table to use as a fence. At the end of the job they were freehand ripping things on it. These guys would also put a 2x4 across one knee and cross cut it with a circular saw.
I respect those guys alot. Toward the end of the job we were all drinking a beer together and I told them that on the next job they did for me I was going to leave a paint bucket out for severed body parts out and a few tourniquets.
Yet none of them bleed on the job- thankfully.
Frank
we actually do a fair amount of freehand ripping, but i don't use a circular saw across my knee (to rip!!)
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